See: https://coom.tech/index.php?title=Coom.tech:General_disclaimer
Health Disclaimer: Everything on this website is intended for educational, and research purposes. Nothing here is verified or confirmed by medical professionals. We do not take any responsibility for your actions, choose to do stuff at your own risk. ♥ Always Consult A Medical Professional For Questions ♥
Piracy Disclaimer: We do not host any illegal content on this website. This website is a mere index of external resources and information. If you have issues with resources, do not complain to us. ☠ Enjoy ☠
Lots of content below are posted on centralized, and private services and the content can be taken down at anytime. Lots of these services also invade user privacy. If you have the ability, please create torrents and share, or use a decentralized, federated or distributed systems like IPFS. Also re-upload the content other to other sources such as PeerTube. Prefer FLOSS (Free, Libre, and Open Source) software whereever possible. As well as decentralized, federated, and distributed software to help ensure longevity of such content.
Lots of the links below are already dead, let's try to preserve what is left, and future content please.
Note: Please avoid adding, changing, or removing content in this section. It is intended to be a copy of the source material. If you have more to add, simply create a new section in the wiki! Note: This is a copy with extremely minor changes, and formatting edits to conform to the wiki. The purpose of the copy is to to help spread the information, and ensure longevity and archival of said content. The original sources are linked directly below.
Courtesy of /jp/. ControlC: https://controlc.com/08ffe926 ControlC Archive: https://archive.is/eNx8e Pastebin Archive: https://archive.is/IC9bQ
Note: To any /ona/ readers: We would also highly suggest offering FLOSS (Free, Libre, and Open Source), more privacy friendly, alternative areas to chat, such as IRC, or Matrix instead of Discord. Or at minimum, offer a bridge to the Discord.
The Toucan Guide /jp/ onahole pastebin (/ona/) 2020 Rev v0.7.4 - April 21st 2020 Written by Rjob !!o1HOiv6DpsF and the Toucan Guide Staff Supported by the community. Love you guys.
MotD: Remember that all browsers have a search function (ctrl +f) if you need to find something in this guide. USPS will never get faster, only slower. Shipping to the USA with E-packet is a fate worse than death. The Discord: https://discord.gg/prxzv4c
"Pray to Hermes - get stuff delivered quicker"
DISCLAIMER: I do not endorse breaking the law in any state or province of any country. All information presented in this guide is for educational use. Use the information in this guide at your own risk.
DISCLAIMER 2: There are ZERO (0) paid links in this guide. Everything in here is recommended based on merit. If we DO receive a sponsorship, I will be marking it as such in the guide for all to see.
09/28/17: I revised the guide again. Removed the wall of weird stuff that does not belong there in the beginning. This is stage one of an overhaul I am doing on the guide. Any concerns please reach out to me via email or discord.
09/12/17: New discord, for all your circle jerking needs - https://discord.gg/prxzv4c
21/12/17: Rest in peace's, NLS. Updated all English NLS links to Japanese ones for ease of product identification. Slight pruning and editing.
02/10/18: Fixed dead link for fap hero torrent. Replaced with Mega link curated by faphero discord
08/03/18: Fixed Formatting, added to brick and mortar stores.
2/1/19: Minor grammatical adjustments. Happy New Year /ona/
10/2/19: 0.7.3 Queencat's entry updated to reflect that they will no longer ship to Canada. RIP Canadians.
23/06/19: 0.7.4 General guide update. Rest in peace, QueenCat; Hello, Amazon JP. Links in the rec list updated to Daimaoh and HotPowers where possible for consistency. OtonaJP moved further down for being JList-tier naughty. Oppai paste removed and rewritten into section 2h for a much simpler, concise aid. Recommendations expanded. Retailers/vendors modified. Anal-guide never.
Forward:
Is your hand not doing it anymore? You are among friends. This guide will get you from hand pleb race to glorious plastic vagina race in less than an hour. This guide is intended to answer most common questions that come up in every onahole thread. It will attempt to guide new and experienced uses through the purchasing process. There is also a section on use, along with tips. The long awaited review section is under construction, and is accepting new contributions.
Suggest any improvements or additions for future Pastebins in our thread or via e-mail. ~ Rjob
As a general rule of thumb, if there is no information from the manufacturer/retailer about the internals, tunnel length, overall length and width, then it’s shit. Sometimes, you won’t see information from the manufacturer, but at the retailers instead, due to selective information sharing with the market. Unfortunately, the Western market panders to SEXY COVER GIRLS XXX printed on the box with near-zero information, solely relying on that as a marketing tactic to sell. They mostly don’t have the habit of putting images of cross-sections, despite being so easy to do. While we really shouldn't put them down on that, it’s not very smart to actively avoid the publication of accurate information regarding what you sell, especially if it’s on the box.
This section will attempt to answer the constantly asked questions in each thread. If you ask these questions you'll probably be trolled instead.
Q: Is the packaging Discreet? A: Yes. All the distributors listed in the shopping section will discreetly ship your fake vaginas in a brown box. Name and address. Customs declaration of “figures” if sent overseas. DHL puts something else. Will explain in shipping section.
Q: Is (Loli Hole Here) legal in the USA? A: If it’s being sold on Amazon USA, ToyDemon, or CoolMaleSextoy then it is LEGAL to own in the USA. If you are still worried, ask the shop to remove the packaging before sending it. Always check your country's laws about owning pictures of animated little girls before ordering, or you'll be bubba's onahole.
Q: Do I have to clean and dry it? A: If you're going to buy these marvels, take care of them for toucan's sake. Clean your cum out and dry them thoroughly.
Q: Which hole feels like the real thing? A: Rjob’s experience with real pussy points to the Venus Real in Soft as the closest to the real thing. You'll need Onatsuyu lube and a warmer.
Q: Will my buying habits appear on my bank account/paypal for my parents to see? A: No. All the listed companies (except Jlist) will charge you under a different, unrelated name.
Q: How are the Bad Dragon Holes? A: Reports say they lack texture, suction, and are overpriced.
Q: Difference between single and dual layer onaholes? A: Dual layer is when there's a second layer of rubber inside the toy, often with a darker colour. Look at the R20 (single) and seventeen bordeaux (double) to see the difference. These second layers often have different properties compared to the main layer, usually being of softer, more elastic material. These usually have molding issues, such as inconsistent layer thickness and minor delamination in rarer cases.
Q: Difference between the material levels of TOMAX holes? A: It's the hardness of the material the onahole is made of. Soft will be less rough on your penis than hard. Hard will provide more stimulation though (i.e: you'll cum faster). You have to experiment to see what you're comfortable with.
Q: Which is better? X or Y? A: >whynotboth.jpg Anon if it's not clear by now, every dick is different and will like different holes. This journey is self discovery is one which you'll have to embark on your own.
Q: Do onaholes feel better than real pussy? A: Depends on who you ask. We say yes.
Q: So J-list has... A: Don’t even think about it.
Q: Can my hole freeze or melt during shipping or if I leave it outside when I can’t pick it up? I live in X country. A: Drastic change in temps are alright, depending on what hole. Lower temperatures, as far as I have found, increase the likelihood of plasticizer leaking due to a difference in thermal expansion(in this case, contraction). Just expect it to be rather oily when you first get it. For higher temperatures, it may deform and “melt”, depending on where pressure is exerted in its packaging.
Q: Is it safe to ingest water based lube? A: Generally, yes. Ingesting water based lube isn't too dangerous as long as it's simple and don't contain too many preservatives and additives that could upset the gastrointestinal system.
Because it's water based, your national poisons agency will most likely tell you to drink plenty of water to dilute it, and possibly even tell you not to induce vomiting to avoid dehydration or further irritation. The lube can be thick, slimy and often stays cohesive which can be a danger when ingesting in moderate amounts. Lube can absorb water, and depending on its contents, can absorb varying amounts until it's flushed out of the system. If you do end up chugging down a lot of lube for any reason, you might find that your poop ends up slimy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uh_ET6bUrxc
Q: What’s the difference between Fleshlights and Japanese onaholes? A: Different materials, namely materials based on TPE and silicone respectively. Because of this, there are varying limitations to items in both categories such as molding and material abilities. Silicone is much more structurally rigid than TPE and is generally more resistant to wear. TPE provides the benefits of being able to mold awkward structures, tunnels and shapes, unlike silicone based ones. Generally, silicone based ones are tougher and harder. Again, properties are dependent on the mix. Onas are often close ended and can offer suction. As with silicone based products, they are generally harder and thus provide more stimulation and often cannot produce a closed end due to molding processes. FL has boring tunnel structures, albeit still stimulating. Onas can have crazy tunnels that keep you interested and mentally active - you could forget that you're stroking at a certain area, then you suddenly feel a certain bump, and so on. The same silicone stuff applies to BD holes. While they come up with varying designs, they are still limited because of their material choices. The benefits of FL and BD is that they offer products for the more endowed, unlike onas that go up to 7" at most, but average at 4"-5". Fleshlights also come with a case that restricts the expansion of the material, forcing more pressure onto you if you are very girthy.
Q: What are these made of? A: Thermoplastic Elastomers. Read the science section for more information.
Q: How are these made? A: Mostly injection molded, but some are poured into a cast and the end is cut off.
Q: Can I make one of these? A: Sure you can. Be it ballistics gel or recycling old holes, making these are fairly simple!
Q: My parents found my plastic butt under my bed! What do I do? A: Talk to them about your privacy and try to slap some sense into them. Your belongs are your belongings. If they take it, it’s theft. Hide it in other places or get a lock for your collection.
Q: Can I use a hole that I haven’t cleaned for a day since I last used it? A: Sure you can, you just risk fungal and bacterial infection!
Q: How long can I leave a hole during a fap break? How long is too long? A: Generally, try not to leave it out in the open for long periods. A ten minute break from fapping and having a go again should be fine. Having it attached to your dick during your break is ideal as you don’t let too much air in it, however whatever you have inside can still grow. It all depends on your living conditions and hygiene, so only you can tell how much of a dirty NEET you want to be.
Q: Do I lube my warmer before I put it in? A: Well, yes. You can put it in without lube, but pulling it out can be difficult. Lube inside can also get warmed up, which is pretty great since water has a high heat capacity. Lube also provides a little buffer zone between the warmer and the tunnel itself, reducing the chances of specific areas deforming from heat.
Q: Is this image too lewd for customs? A: If it has any focus on the labia, nipples, any very suggestive images(such as removal of bras and underwear), and extreme focus on the hole itself(such as closeup of the human labia), then the image may be too lewd. Overly sexual images such as depictions of semen or any other fluids, wet thighs, hands down in panties will obviously count as lewd and sexual in nature. Anything that depicts penetration, rape or just sex in general can be counted as “obscene” by the standards of most countries and is often in the “banned imports” list, depending on the country or state you are in. It may also be punishable. Government agencies such as customs and law enforcement may act upon seeing these images.
Q: Are there any pink, semi-transparent onaholes like in my east-Asian illustrations? Are there any like in my east-Asian illustrations? A: Short answer, no. Long answer, yes. There are a few holes that are semi-transparent, but they’re all clear and colorless, wildly different from most things you see in doujinshis. Open ended holes are also available, but are in low demand due to generally poorer performance.
Q: Any exercises I can do to last longer/increase stamina so I can actually enjoy my onahole for more than 3 minutes? A: Kegels and general endurance training with holes. Keep going until you’re about to blow, then stop. Resume when ready and repeat. No immediate results, but long term effects can be apparent.
Q: Can I use a condom? A: Yes, as long as your lube is still water based. The only thing that makes cleaning up easier is the removal of organic matter inside the hole, which isn’t much of a difference. Condoms also usually lessen the stimulation a bit. Be sure to clean your onahole afterwards and don’t be a lazy fuck.
Q: Can I pay via X?? A: Ask the store. They have a wide variety of payment options. If you can’t be bothered to read that or ask, then you don’t deserve the ability to pay at all.
Q: Is there any way to identify a bootleg onahole? I can’t read Asian! A: Not really. There aren’t enough bootlegs to begin with, if there are any. The market is too small and is very volatile for there to be any bootlegs
Q: How do you measure girth? A: String and a ruler. Wrap the string around your supposedly erect penis and measure the string length with the ruler.
Q: >porous A: The only thing porous here is your head. Porosity is an absolute, and pore size depends on production and material. Unfortunately, this meme circulates around in uneducated Western communities that regurgitate information they can’t understand or give reason to, let alone think about.
Q: Can I use these without lube? A: Yes! Go ahead and try! Though it won’t be as pleasant with lube.
Q: Why do anons say not to buy from OtonaJP/Naughty Nippon? A: Otona sometimes doesn't ship out the product you bought from them, without a refund. It got so bad that TrustPilot banned them from their website because they kept removing reviews. See section 2b for more information.
DO NOT BUY WHILE HORNY. Make sure to stay objective by browsing reviews before purchasing. Its like walking into a food store hungry.
Choosing the appropriate onahole: # Get your max erect length and girth, bone pressed erect length(BPEL). BPEL is used so that you don't impale a hole whenever you go balls deep and press yourself against it.
There are a few main classifications based on size, mass and shape to help classify and generalize a few points with their pros and cons. Your living conditions, space and privacy will determine what you can get and operate with in your home.
The sites below contain collective information on onaholes: Use them if you can into moon and want to browse.
Onaho.net is a collective review site on onaholes. While lacking tunnel information, they often include information such as firmness, oiliness, stimulation, smell, size, maker, rough price, website availability, ease of maintenance, tunnel design, durability, tightness, cost performance, release date, flippability and popularity.
M's is a retailer of adult goods and will often have detailed information regarding items such as tunnel length(except for older holes), as well as having reviews for the items they sell. They are often updated with retail-friendly companies such as Magic Eyes.
Onahodouga is a reviewer of holes, often commenting on hardness, flexibility, stimulation and major flaws in the hole. Flips the holes inside-out to give a clear impression of the tunnel structure, but does not provide detailed information such as tunnel length. Often comical in nature and even makes 4komas for notable events. The music they use for their videos is Tuxedo Junction.
Another reviewer of onaholes. What makes him stand out from other reviewers is that he separates his analysis into three parts: A tl;dr section for people looking for quick information, an overview of the product pointing out three strengths/weaknesses and suggesting three other onaholes that have features the one in question lacks, and a few other people's opinions on the product, usually a positive and a negative reception.
A list of reviewers in English and other languages. A few to note are:
When looking for new onaholes being released into retail, go to the following link: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uHX1q8G2XKKGVHOvlXTyKbMGZRPHhxWzq2N_KqNoDqs/edit#gid=0 (https://archive.is/8t27S)
And finally, one anon has compiled a list of holes to choose from, along with their important specs such as dimensions and weight. Use the temporary filter function as default filters are inaccessible to all users. Filter views is the funnel symbol on the toolbar. Rest in peace, data anon.
Listed below are the companies that make the onaholes that the vendors sell. Listed in order of popularity.
eXe: vast branch, quality go from 2000JPY. Durability is average. Large catalog.
PPP: Does many artist collaborations with their products. Despite the alluring packaging, it's overpriced, is of questionable quality and is small. Sells because of packaging.
Nothing special to note. Anons with their random goodie bags have reported sub-par performance and quality. Little to no information shown on products.
This guide's shopping recommendations will be assuming you live in the USA. If you are looking for the best deal, proceed down the list starting at one until you find what you want. Each store will have pros and cons.
Tip: Use your bank to convert currency. It lets you avoid PayPal's huge conversion rate. They charge you a lot of money extra on conversions to guarantee that they get money for the transaction. Banks often have the lowest conversion rates. Keep in mind some banks may have a fee involved with converting currency. Do some research before trying this.
North America:
Illinois. Has a wide selection but some markup. Makes/sells a plush doll of their own design. A good site for reading English-language product reviews. Can be pricey but may save you on big purchases, especially if you take advantage of their preorder system. Has a special order system if you found a toy on another website but don't feel like dealing with a proxy service.
California based distributor. Has a good selection of both Western and Eastern male toys with quick, discrete shipping. The prices seem higher up front, but the shipping is included with the costs. Has a price match service. If you find one of their items cheaper on another site, just tell them and they will match the price for you. Shipping is very quick within the States and you can even contact them with item suggestions if they don't carry something you're looking for. Very convenient and fast service if you happen to live in the US.
Japan:
Not in english, will not ship internationally. You'll need a forwarding service. They have some exclusive stuff/good prices though. Also has H-manga and a wide variety of products. Staff seem to be able to speak English, but the extent of their fluency is currently unknown.
Site in Japanese language only. Store ships also internationally, EMS only. Hotpowers sells products from the major manufacturers but also makes and sells toys of their own design. Some Hotpowers models can be found on Amazon. Now has a much more detailed product info chart for new products, akin to onaho.net's.
Guide to ordering for non-Japanese speakers: http://i.imgur.com/zpWiThh.jpg (https://archive.is/gwstQ) Guide to the Hotpowers ¥10k package: http://i.imgur.com/OzBbGCc.jpg (https://archive.is/ws6IB)
With the most recent development, Amazon Japan now offers international shipping! We've had issues with anons having trouble with DHL rejecting onaholes and lube due to a lack of information from Amazon's side about the package. So far, Spain and Canada have been affected, so buyer beware.
A child-site of Nippon-Yasan.
Markup, EMS and a horrendous website.
A new shop. Ships internationally. Mostly sells onaholes, but also sells a few eroge, figures, and JAVs. A little messy to navigate but they are very responsive.
Europe:
Actually has stock. Has the site split into normal goods(motsu) and dolls(mytenga). The cheapest vendor for EU, can ship via DHL. Super friendly staff and can organize shipping worldwide.
Will never have stock. Distributor of Tomax related goods in the EU. Much like any post-war German technology, overpriced.
VAT inclusive. Free shipping >£40, probably only within the UK.
Superjews. Loved omochadreams so much they even copied their prices.
OtonaJP's European branch. Proceed with caution.
Other Vendors:
The former go-to of international orders, ceasing international services since December 15, 2017. Their Japanese website is still up and will require a forwarder.
Insane markup for a forwarding service that doesn't even have domestic stock, don't bother. Also stores your information unhashed!
Germany/UK amazon. Worth a check.
Star Erotic Germany / EU - Has Tomax products in stock and ships rather quickly, despite a slightly higher price.
Newish(?) vendor, ships to the rest of the EU.
Based in Japan, advertises to exploit ““““otaku””””. Markups as high as 300%. Plus shipping FROM JAPAN. Almost anything stocked on Jlist is cheaper someplace else.
Dont buy from otona unless you absolutely have to. They take forever to ship. https://www.trustpilot.com/review/otonajp.com
Post: No.21519148 (https://warosu.org/jp/thread/S21514166#p21519148) A disclaimer/warning for otonaJP, moving them down, or even a blacklist would be nice.
Several people (including myself) have had issues with them not shipping orders and running away with the money. Thought it was just me but I saw anon(s) in previous threads reporting the same issue, you can also go to their trustpilot and filter it to show only bad reviews, seems like recently otona have been running away with peoples money.
If you take a look at their terms and conditions, it is set up in a way that they have literally no liability or obligation to fulfill your order if they don't feel like it, and they will not be held liable if they fail to deliver.
2.3 in their terms: "Upon receipt of the Customer’s order, Seller will verify the availability of the Product(s) and the Customer’s credit card or other payment details. Seller has not accepted the Customer’s offer and is not obliged to supply the Product(s) until Seller has shipped the Product(s) and sent an order confirmation to the Customer by email."
5.2 "Any dates quoted by Seller for the delivery of Product(s) are estimates only and shall not form part of the contract. Seller aims to deliver promptly, however delays are occasionally inevitable due to unforeseen factors. Seller shall be under no liability for any delay or failure to deliver the Product(s) within the estimated delivery time."
This means they can delay as long as they want, and since they are not liable for the order until it is shipped, and also that they will not be liable for any delay or failure to deliver, they can literally just delay your order for years, or just fuck off with your money and not even ship your order. This is what happened to me in my case. Worst case scenario this could even mean that they can list items on their website that they don't even have or are unable to acquire.
>>21519148 (https://warosu.org/jp/thread/S21514166#p21519148) If you take a look at their terms and conditions, it is set up in a way that they have literally no liability or obligation to fulfill your order if they don't feel like it, and they will not be held liable if they fail to deliver.
2.3 in their terms: "Upon receipt of the Customer’s order, Seller will verify the availability of the Product(s) and the Customer’s credit card or other payment details. Seller has not accepted the Customer’s offer and is not obliged to supply the Product(s) until Seller has shipped the Product(s) and sent an order confirmation to the Customer by email."
5.2 "Any dates quoted by Seller for the delivery of Product(s) are estimates only and shall not form part of the contract. Seller aims to deliver promptly, however delays are occasionally inevitable due to unforeseen factors. Seller shall be under no liability for any delay or failure to deliver the Product(s) within the estimated delivery time."
This means they can delay as long as they want, and since they are not liable for the order until it is shipped, and also that they will not be liable for any delay or failure to deliver, they can literally just delay your order for years, or just fuck off with your money and not even ship your order. This is what happened to me in my case. Worst case scenario this could even mean that they can list items on their website that they don't even have or are unable to acquire.
REST IN PEACE ;_;7
REST IN PEACE ;_;7
If you have any more to add, we can always add more to the plethora of vendors. The more we all order from them and the better general rep a vendor gets, the more notable they are and the more trustworthy they can be, we'll add them to the main list.
Shipping prices and rates are fucked because of COOF. Many shipping options aren't even available depending on your area of residence
SAL or e-packet has less of a chance of being inspected by customs. No inspection means less chance of import tax for Europeans.
Lockers:
A breakthrough in hole ordering anonymity. You can choose to have Amazon deliver your product to various locations that support Amazon Lockers. where you can have Amazon packages picked up at rather than shipping it to your home. Amazon ships the item to your store of choice, and you pick it up from the store without anyone at your house seeing what got shipped to you. Findlocker - A good option for anons living with people who might go through their mail. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amazon_Locker
If you reside in the US and the place you order from ships via FedEx, you can use FedEx's Hold for Pickup option where they will ship the product to an eligible store. You can receive email/text updates. Sometimes the workers are lazy/incompetent so they may not mark the product as "received" so if it happens to be "on route/transit" for over a day, it's most likely at the store. Bring forms of ID.
Common Forwarders:
And everything else you can find over at /buyfag/.
Shipping Times:
The advertised shipping times by carriers can be inaccurate, both for and against you. They put that time span to cover their ass when someone complains (even moreso because of COVID). Here's an estimate.
Rough Shipping Times:
For`` ``US`` ``Residents:`` ``The`` ``government`` ``is`` ``fucking`` ``with`` ``the`` ``post`` ``office`` ``again`` ``so`` ``shit`` ``may`` ``possibly`` ``be`` ``delayed`` ``even`` ``more`` ``on`` ``top`` ``of`` ``COVID`` ``nonsense
New York Area:
Oceania:
To all Europeans: Massive changes regarding VAT have been implemented since April of 2021, so now all imported goods are susceptible to VAT. This section will undergo changes and is outdated.
Taken from: http://pastebin.com/tdQrMzkB (https://archive.is/CPM7i)
From what I gathered, most EU countries have a lousy €22 tax free limit for goods imported outside the Eurozone. Anything above that and you get raped with Sales tax, Tariff and Administration costs.
In Holland where i live the Administration costs are €13 on top of the 21% sales tax. Not sure about tariff though. You only pay tariff here for goods with a value higher than €150 and i never ordered something that expensive.
Also in holland they charge extra administration costs for EMS packages: €17.50 instead of €13,- Its also worth noting DHL on the other hand only charges €10,- administration costs.
Over here DHL also handles costums stuff MUCH better than the regular mail by way. They text you with a code you can use to access their website to pay the costums charges in advance so you dont have to wait 2 to 3 weeks for them to calculate taxes and pay them with cash at the door like with EMS/E-Packet/SAL
DHL which requires accurate declarations like "rubber toy" and "lotion". Hotpowers default is "cushion". You may use the order comments field to request that NLS change the declaration to your preferences. You can also request that a seller remove packaging / artwork that your local customs inspectors might find offensive.
SAL has the least chance to be inspected by customs, and thus also least chance for extra tax for Europeans. Small packet under 2kg (boxes removed helps) + unregistered mail has very low chance of triggering said inspections.
The USA has no customs charge until you reach around 1000$ for a single package. AMERICA, F-YEAH!
READ THIS BEFORE ASKING ABOUT LEGALITY IN USA: /jp/ seems particularly concerned about the legal status of certain holes, usually due to box art. Understand that all products sold at the above vendor sites comply with the local laws of the fulfilling business. Because Queen Cat sold the Puni Hole DX out of Los Angeles and because Toydemon sells Rina/Roa/Lolinco/COCOLO out of Chicago, these are legal products for Americans to purchase and own. Stop asking if you will be sent to jail for buying holes and embrace your freedoms. If you live elsewhere, do some research on your local laws before you order.
Obviously, customs is not an issue if you are shopping within your own country.
Customs differ from country to country, and each country will have varying laws and regulations around certain objects. They are on alert for materials such as uneven solids, granules and suspicious objects that don't match package description. The package is first passed through an x-ray machine to scan for material unevenness, hidden pockets, granulated solids, funny material properties and to have a general outline of the item. "Liquids" (lubricants" and powders are more likely to be inspected than toys.
If a customs officer deems it suspicious(or just on a whim or randomly), they will open the box to inspect and run tests on such as swabs for residue. If the package is benign and is deemed of no danger, then they will tape it back up and move on.
If the package contains malicious things such as chemical traces of drugs, illicit paraphernalia and material to make paraphernalia, they will either seize it or let it through and track further packages to the destination and from the originating country.
Should customs destroy your package, they should inform you by letter or call, but this will depend on the country.
Customs may or may not put a sticker or tape that says "Searched by customs", depending on your country's laws and regulations regarding customs. Depending on the country, the postal service may do the same if they operate on the same level as customs do when it comes package inspection. Generally, this applies to most countries. Whatever customs deems dangerous to the country and its people will depend on each country. If customs does something to your package, they can either tell you or not tell you about it. If it gets destroyed, they will inform you of it, and you most likely can't do anything.
If you think that they destroyed it on unreasonable grounds, you can always ask them about it. While they have governmental power over the border and things that go through it, you can probably contest it, as long as you have good knowledge of your importation laws, restrictions and regulations. Customs can always contact you, the seller or the shipper for details. If it gets held up, it'll just say that the package is still in customs. Whether or not they're processing it, in a backlog, or even inspecting it in detail, it won't say on your tracking number. Time like this you should just wait it out. Most packages can spend 2-8 hours in customs before being sent to the post offices, sometimes even longer. If it does get opened, nicer people in customs will put tape or a sticker over it saying "opened by customs" or "checked by customs". If it gets quarantined, you are notified after a certain time. If it goes through quarantine quickly, they don't really bother in notifying you quickly. If it gets confiscated, they inform you, and you most likely have to pick it up. If you live in a tax-heavy area, bring some money and prepare for probable tax. In most places, you can call customs about it, and they can tell you your options.
Whether or not they put you on a watch-list, you may never know. You may not intervene or retrieve a package before or during a check at customs, unless permitted by customs in circumstances such as identification of goods or even interrogation regarding the import of goods.
You may not intervene or retrieve a package in transit to the postal service or while it is at your postal service station, unless permitted by your postal service station in circumstances such as identification of goods to be sent or even a missed delivery.
IMPORTANT: As an update, one anon who used to visit the threads is no longer in trial. His package consisted of Cocolo, Lolinco and MoT. Customs deemed the illustration of Cocolo to be illegal.
(June, 2015)
The government, upon finding the package from DHL, performed a month long investigation, including undercover surveillance, delivered the package as part of an undercover sting operation, arrested me once it was confirmed I opened the package, was in RCMP custody for about half a day, interrogated by an officer for a few hours, and then released on bail. To clarify, the package had the Cocolo, Mouth of Truth, and Lolinco. Customs only found issue with the Cocolo packaging, and the entirety of the charges is based on that one picture.
I think there's reasonable grounds to defend in this case though--the package has a character bio that gives reason to believe she's 18 (says she's majoring in psychology), and the product is available from canadian retailers such as amazon.ca. The RCMP's case is based on a shaky interpretation of the character's physical traits: no breasts, no hips, no pubic, which is fairly weak given the image. And there's no current legal framework for determining the age of a drawing, and no precedent.
(Oct, 2015)
The RCMP had conducted a month long investigation over the period that they had the package. This included one week where they staked out my home and work, and at one point even tailed me with my friends to a restaurant while monitoring me. They went through my twitter and online profile too. They conducted an undercover sting, where they posed as a DHL delivery driver to give me the package. They arrested me in the parking lot of my workplace where I had the package in my vehicle. I was charged at the time with possession of child pornography, importing obscene goods, and smuggling or attempting to smuggle prohibited goods. To clarify, the illustration was the only evidence. After dragging on for months, the prosecutor agreed to drop the charges in exchange for me accepting a peace bond. The media has basically reported everything as it happened, full with my name and info.
Here's what to do if you live in Canada, and are buying loli holes: (LOLI IS ILLEGAL IN CANADA):
Loli is notably illegal in Canada and Australia, due to being classified as child pornography. Remove packaging on anything that can vaguely even depict “young” girls. Use E-packet, as it is slower and is less likely to be opened by customs and investigated. If you’re worried about getting vanned and taken into court, read up on your laws, purge all content, write 0’s on drives, melt the platters down, and prepare your defense. There isn’t much we can do to help you apart from tell you that you fucked up somewhere.
If you are in Japan and are buying from a brick and mortar store, then you'll find plenty in Akihabara, with Love Merci being one of the more popular ones. Some stores such as M's allow you to get exempted from tax if you show them your foreign passport so do take advantage of that. If you aren't near Akihabara, you can always look around for shops in your area.
If you have a place to live where you're rather free and unrestrained, feel free to order from Daimaoh, Hot Powers or any other online store that offers shipping within Japan. Ask your landlord or accommodation about receiving packages to ensure you get your items.
Because you don't need to pay for shipping, it'll be cheaper to buy stuff if you're in Japan, especially for heavy items such as lubricants and hips. Because of the nature of liquids and customs, shipping liquids tend to get your boxes opened and inspected by customs.
If you're buying plenty of items, ask about overweight charges and make sure you weigh all of your bags. Some companies are lenient with their bag weights due to the flight, some charge cheaply for increments of five kilograms, some charge highly per kilogram, so be sure to ask about it.
Toranoana Store C is the one with the onahole section. They also have insert-pillows in normal size and DX size, along with covers for both. Toranoana Store C carries the popular tengas, a few parody holes, and some small holes.
Trader 3 has an onahole section on the 4th floor. They carry all of the G Project holes and accessories. Their insert-pillows are 100円 cheaper that Toranoana's.
Lammtarra DVD is a hyper-cramped JAV store spanning 5 floors. The onaholes are on the 5th floor in an aisle and two corners. They had small holes, hips, tengas, and parody holes. All were slightly cheaper than anywhere else. It was only the only place that had smells. (I was correct yesterday when I said there were no smells in Love Merci. I checked there again today to be sure.) The insert-pillow covers in Lammtarra were more expensive than anywhere else however (the lowest at 1864円!)
Lammtarra DVD BOOK GAME down the street is equally packed with JAV for 5 floors. However, its onahole section is on the 4th floor and has hips, lotions, tengas, small holes, fewer smells than the other Lammtarra, and parody holes. There is a bit more room for the onas here and you have a wider selection of hips.
Bringing them home through the airport:
If you are concerned about the box art but still want to have it, wrap them in a non-transparent plastic bag(ideally black), seal it up and sandwich them deep between clothing items.
Customs officers are unlikely to rifle deep through personal belongings and wouldn't bother to open up a sealed/tightly tied non-transparent bag if it's obvious that a product box is in it and the x-ray did not pick up anything suspicious.
Alternatively, feel free to rip apart the box, flatten it and cover it in thick paper or a non-transparent plastic bag and sandwich it between clothes.
All Onaholes and lubricants MUST go into your check-in luggage and NOT in your carry on luggage to reduce the risk of inspection. Make sure to tape up lubricants to make sure they don't spill. Lubricants that have a snap lid squeezable bottle can open up in transit and can lead to a mess when you get home, not to mention loss of lube.
If you're trying to save up on space, wrap your onaholes in soft clothing items. Most onaholes will come in a plastic covering bag to protect them inside the box, so wrap around that plastic bag to avoid crease lines. If you're boxes are too big, pull them apart, flatten them and put them somewhere in your bag.
We have a few things to consider when choosing a breast toy:
Your Penis: Greatly determines how easily you can have some fun by sliding it in and keeping it between the breasts instead of slipping out all the time. You may find it very difficult to keep it in without having to angle the breasts right, hold the breasts in its entirety, or even go prone. Generally, the more your penis tends to point upwards with an erection, the more difficulty you might have in terms of positioning. Sure enough you can find a way to get around all the physical limitations if your body by sitting right or whatever, but that's up for you to explore.
Clothing: Both as a support item or something to enhance the experience, clothing can change how you play with breasts. You can mount them, cover them and essentially protect them from general wear and tear if you even sleep with them. Bras can be an excellent add-on, but the shoulder straps may dig in and cut the material, so care must be taken. Sports bras that fit appropriately can help cup the breasts in place upon mounting, but size should be a consideration; trial and error! Clothing can help cup the breasts for you, reduce splay and overall may even provide a better groping experience for you. Elastic clothing works best as taut or tightly fitting items reduce the soft breasts into a solid, inelastic mass - a coarsely knitted cotton shirt works best to provide just enough elasticity for body contact and groping while just enough support to keep the breasts from falling apart when mounted. Some have had success in using nursing bra's, but the cup size can be difficult to gauge without having a reference body. Clothing will eventually soak up some of that oiliness over time and really can't be washed off very easily, so treat all clothing items as disposables.
Sizing-wise, we've had success in mounting the Ai-Chan onto a plush with a 34C nursing bra. With the relatively small torso of most plushes, I've managed to put a sports bra onto the Ai-Chan, and a US Men's Small/Medium shirt over Akari to keep it loosely in place. Having Akari out almost 9 month's a year, I've only gone through 3 shirts that are now far too oily for use. I've also used a sports bra and a 34C nursing bra to contain Akari alone as best as it could, unfortunately unmounted. Many anons have had success in using tie-on bras and lingerie to spice up their breasts as you can easily adjust them. It's best for you to find out what you want in terms of clothing.
Use: Are you buying this solely to fulfill a groping need, visual aesthetics, a need to suckle, or perhaps as a sleeping aid to keep your hands busy? What you're wanting it for can determine what key features you should look out for in breasts. If you're looking for firmer nipples to nibble, pull and play with, you might want to look at things with more pronounced nipples or maybe even ones with a separate material for the nipple. Chances are you'd want to stick your dick between some massive honkers so their general shape will be very important - if they're incredibly splayed and separated or too small you will have some trouble wrapping them around your penis. You'd want a lot of breast volume and cleavage where the breasts touch. Would you be mounting this on a pillow or a plush for use? Consider how it'll fall apart when you're hugging it or rolling around in bed with it. The correct amount of lube is entirely up for you to find out and see how much you like. Just enough to keep it free or just enough to retain a little friction?
Care and Space: Breasts have a natural tendency to have rough areas where lots of friction can occur, particularly the base of the cleavage and the under boob. Washing and cleaning is fairly straightforward, some mild soap and some water and off you go. Bits of stuck powder or dirt may need some gentle soapy groping won't remove. A small tub would be ideal for these since you can very easily submerge, fondle and clean very easily. It is a well known fact that breasts are natural flotation devices, so they will end up floating. Powdering is key to ensure a lint-free and dirt-free experience and lessens the amount of friction the contacting parts will receive, and thus less of that roughness appearing. The boxes they come in will have a blister package to keep the breasts safe. Breasts will naturally feel a bit oily, but powdering will not completely remove that feeling. Clothing can mask the oiliness and can soak it up over prolonged periods.
Repair: If you've managed to have some fabric indentation or lightly pressed marking on the surface of the breasts, let them relax for a while and they will eventually iron themselves out to a point where they're almost unnoticeable. Only exception is when it's far too deep for the material to uncompress and unstretch itself. A fallen or detached nipple can always be unsightly. Using a heat source to melt the materials back together might have unsightly results, and using a hard cyanoacrylate adhesive might result in stiffness in that area. Prevention is better than the cure.
Concerns: Gel-filled oppai can have varying quality control(looking at you, Magic Eyes) and can lead to underfilling, which makes it look and feel like a deflated, botched tit-job. Cut your fingernails and avoid sharp things as you can easily marr, scratch and dig into the solid mass of a breast, making it look visually unappealing despite being functionally the same.
Choice: There ends up being a few kinds of breasts out there: naturally splayed, naturally supported, and ribbed. Ribbed breasts(like cheapo tamatoys breasts) have a ribbed cleavage for additional stimulation and are generally cheap. Naturally splayed breasts often don't have enough solid cleavage(Magic Eyes Ane Oppai as an example) and don't have enough breast volume to be fun, but exceptions such as the new Chichifueta and the Chichifueta Rocket that have enough breast volume exist. Naturally supported breasts are ones that look like they're most natural facing up, like the Ai-Chan, Saccuel and many others. These tend to have a rather thick base to support the breasts and are generally the easiest to keep your penis in as they tend to naturally cup it.
The mass, volume and shape of the breasts play a rather important role in how it feels, so be sure to take those into account. Larger, thicker bases end up eating a lot of the reported weight of the breasts, so be sure to gauge that up.
Due to availability and the wide variety of breast toys out there, your purchase is entirely dependent on what you're looking for specifically. Check out the rec list below, but be sure to explore your options and what is available to you. As always, shipping will be a bitch.
Use water-based lube ONLY.
This cannot be stressed enough. WATER BASED. It's on the label. It will also be in the product's description on the various vendor sites. Lube can either be applied onto the penis directly, on the entrance of the hole, or both. It’s not the quantity of lube that matters, it’s the coverage you get with it. As long as the contact areas of your penis and the hole are lubed, you will be fine. Lube quantity will affect the sensation you get, so experiment with the amount. Feel free to spread the lube with your hand and fingers on your penis and the hole, as long as things get covered with it. If applying directly to the hole, pinch the area beneath the entrance to pool the lube there, as lube may simply drip down into the end of the hole, then slowly penetrate and get as much lube coverage as possible. Water based lube will eventually dry out and can be “reactivated” by applying water or even saliva, so the need to reapply lube is lessened.
Now there have been a few instances of a few people having allergic reactions to some lubes, notably Onatsuyu. Be sure to do a quick test patch on yourself if you ever question it.
Recommended Japanese brands:
Western lubes such as Astroglide or Durex are fine but they become sticky and dry out faster. See above for steps to resolve this.
Self-Healing: Vitamin E will help repair dry skin. Western lube companies sell vitamin-E enriched versions of their lubes. One example is the Lifestyles Vitamin-E and Aloe. Check for them at your local Walmart, Walgreens, or Target.
A highly recommended western lube would be J-Lube. It's extremely effective, but it ships as a dry powder which you add water to until it reaches the desired consistency. 1 bottle mixes into about 26 liters of lube so it's also, by far, the most cost effective.
J-Lube as a Healing Salve: Vitamin-E will help you remoisturize your skin. They can be taken as supplements or mixed in with your lube to help regain sensitivity in your dick.
WARNING: Do not use oils, hand lotion, or silicone-based lubricants as these can destroy/deform rubber. THEY CAN AND WILL DAMAGE YOUR ONAHOLES! It's important to only use the minimum amount of lubricant possible. Too much lube or lube that is too thick / viscous can dull the feeling of a hole. Different brands work better with different rubbers, so experiment.
Heating: Warm rubber feels better than cold rubber. You can immerse a hole in hot tap water for 3-5 minutes before use, or you can use a hole warmer to heat the inside. Alternatively, a bed/sheet warmer or even a heated pet bed can also work, especially efficient for dolls!
Some anons recommend microwaving lubricant in a small vat of water before use.
DO NOT microwave your hole. Do not apply heat, be it a warmer or through fluid, for prolonged periods of time, as it will deform thermoplastics, no matter how little heat you apply. That does mean that creep is constantly happening, even through usage and storage, albeit in a slower rate than with heating.
Superguide To Warming: https://coom.tech/index.php?title=Toys#OnaScience_.28Warming.29
Dolls: The difference between fapping with a handheld onahole and using the same toy hands-free can be huge. If your budget and living situation permit, consider a doll.
Air Doll: Inflatable dolls are cheaper and more easily stored, but come with some predictable issues (vinyl odor, air leaks). They can be upgraded with breast toys or stuffed with cotton / poly fiber filling, but these are pretty hands-on projects.
Air Usahane Love Doll: She has changeable skin color, facial expressions, fits real women's clothes, and can have wigs put on her. Its actually pretty cool, but the different addons cost around 30$ each, and getting one of each plus the doll is a bit costly.
Plush Dolls: Plush dolls are the superior method of using onaholes, apart from letting your "friend" hold it between their thighs. Using your hips with a natural, primal motion can offer a vastly different set of experiences and sensations than using your hands to hold the toy. These dolls only hold your onaholes, they are not usable on their own. These are felt/fabric with foam stuffing and are easily sewn and modified to your own needs, such as a maintenance zipper.
Nui:
The cheapest and possibly the easiest to ship and hide. Has a zip at the back to insert stuffing. Has a tendency to rip at the seams when stuffed to bursting, so some sewing skills may be required.
TD improved the plush and has dropped the price. Has a zipper at the rear for stuffing and maintenance. The old Meiki Plush is now discontinued. Old plush album:http://imgur.com/a/drEZM#0
Pre-filled and ready for some loving.
Quite pricy. Interior has foam backing to the thin-fiber felt. Has no zipper at the rear.
Just the hip!
The Pillow Trick:
Engineered by yours truly (Rjob), this trick will let you enjoy a hole hands free. People say it works wonders. I even made a sexy info-graphic. https://i.imgur.com/6xsdCcw.jpg (https://archive.is/wip/2rl3y)
Pillow Trick v2 Oppai Edition:
For those with oppai needs, clothes and smells. Can become heavy and contoured but requires a bit of work. https://i.imgur.com/F6YbUBO.jpg (https://archive.is/wip/ykEw4)
Dolls and More:
Real Dolls are a different beast entirely. To learn more about them see our Doll+ section below. https://coom.tech/index.php?title=Toys#Doll_MFGS
Smells:
I would count this as a subdivision of dolls because, lets be honest, you're not going to sit there and huff a ziplock bag of smell while stroking. They're for body pillows, dolls, or your sheets. Anyways you can get anything from the smell of perfume, to sweaty hair, to urine and poopy. Its really up to you.
Aural Stimulation:
They make audios of anime girls doing various sexual things. It is really quite stimulating. Ideal conditions are in the dark with your eyes closed. Here's the master list. It’s too big so it gets its own paste. ASMR is a meme name. 音声(おんせい) is the proper term. ASMR is a term that gets thrown around a lot despite people not knowing what they’re actually listening to. Physical and mental responses from aural stimuli can vary from person to person, and generically labelling audio as ASMR is dumb.
https://coom.tech/index.php?title=Toys#Ero_Voice_Collection_.282015.29
If you are cumming too quickly, consider using a trainer to help practice your stamina. These trainers are known as faphero. You can find the links to them below...
https://blog.onahole.eu/category/fapheroes
Mega link for collection of fap hero videos:
https://mega.nz/#F!j7gBUZRY!-DaZtGtTH9rPh8zc9Vg2_g
If you are cumming too slowly or cannot enjoy your onaholes due to excessive masturbation, take a look at the link below. You may be suffering from "Death Grip Syndrome". It is also possible the hole could not be one you enjoy. Make sure your problem is persistent before self-diagnosis.
http://www.curedeathgrip.com/plan-a.html
Toy Bags:
Yes you should buy a breathable bag if you're ordering a hole. Get them from any arts & crafts store by searching "toy bag" and select a size, or visit this amazon JP link to purchase the medium sized ones (which fit almost all stroking holes barring Venus series and Large meikis. You could use plastic food storage bags, but it's generally not recommended as if the toy isn't bone dry, mold will grow.
http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B001MBU7L8?ie=UTF8&redirect=true
Kegels:
You can do kegels to strengthen your pelvic muscles. It will allow you to control your orgasms a bit better. Also is healthy for you to avoid problems with your urinary tract when you're older.
https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/mens-health/in-depth/art-20045074 (https://archive.is/6XUy1)
Jelqing:
No. https://memory-alpha.fandom.com/wiki/Edward_Jellico (https://archive.is/A4B5v)
It's very unfortunate that jelqers never have good experiment conduct - they never provide data, don’t put a control, no records or logs, no measurements, no illustration or accurate depiction of technique; basically very little to base anything on. The majority of jelqers also do not have any knowledge of the tissues and processes that their penis has, so very little correct information is circulated. Physical growth stimuli is a topic of much debate and not so furious research due to >medical discussion of sex. Stress placed on non-structural pressure vessels for prolonged periods has never been studied, but while it should be, all of the jelqers have never provided sufficient evidence to support their claims. So far, no evidence for penis size modification is present for compressive forces, so penis reduction can only really be done via the operating table.If you simply aren't content with your own body, either you grow up, try this, or have cosmetic surgery done.
Death Grip Syndrome:
Death Grip Syndrome, or DGS, is not limited to the hand. Simply put, it is the lack of nervous response to physical stimuli due to constant stimulus. DGS is a non-permanent numbing of the nervous system that, in essence, lets you feel less. The name is simply coined because of masturbation by hand, but it is not limited to the hand at all. Even male porn actors have it at times. What your nervous system responds to changes depending on what is “normal” to it. If you have DGS, simply abstain, use far softer and less stimulating toys.
http://www.curedeathgrip.com/plan-a.html
See: https://coom.tech/index.php?title=Toys#Rjob.27s_Supplements_Guide
After use, it is best to wash and dry a hole immediately. Please don't ask whether you can let a jizzed-in hole sit overnight without getting up to clean it. Only you can decide how much of a filthy otaku you want to be.
To wash, hold the opening under running water and use a finger to loosen the slurry of lube and semen inside, rinsing thoroughly. A mild liquid hand soap can be used for more thorough cleaning.
Most holes should not be turned inside out for cleaning, as this stresses the rubber and can shorten the toy's life. If you don't care or are profoundly lazy, feel free to do it anyway.
Just don't say we didn't warn you. TOMAX holes can take the abuse, but it is not recommended. Should you flip it, ensure that you spend the least amount of time possible when flipped. Creep occurs the most when flipped, compared to use. Creep is a time dependent deformation. While some may argue that onahole death by creep will happen outside its life span, this guide is here to help take care, not test.
Got a hole you want to disinfect? Leaving it soaked with hydrogen peroxide or even isopropyl alcohol is generally fine. Once a hole gets tainted or infected with whatever malicious growth, it's usually terminal and it will be best to say your goodbyes and have a proper farewell.
Drying the insides is not a precaution, but prevention. Globs of moisture on any surface simply traps any particles that float around, be it bacteria, spores or dead skin. If you take out water completely, you stunt any growth that can occur before use. At least this way, you don't have a raging country of cells trying to blast their way into you, but instead have a small town of them.
To dry the inside, tightly roll tissue or paper towel and gently work it into the hole to the very end with your finger, a pen or even a chopstick. Knead and roll the hole around to maximize the contact area between the paper towel and the tunnel. To get further inside, use a flat surface such as a table, and squish the hole downwards with your drying hand, allowing your drying fingers to reach the bottom. Remove wet paper and repeat if necessary until all water absorbed. Do not store holes with damp tissue or even moisture inside them. If using cloth rather than paper, microfiber towels are better for drying because they leave less lint behind than cotton. Using a chopstick to insert your cloth or paper may help. For holes with service tunnels, it may help to run the whole cloth through the entrance all the way out of the service tunnel, like a boresnake.
Air drying is a long and arduous process that involves the rate at which water evaporates. Water evaporation depends on surface area of the water in contact with outside air, temperature of the water, air temperature, humidity and a lot of other factors. To get the best out of air drying, be sure to open up the onahole as much as possible(this may loosen her up!) to increase the active surface area.
Powdering holes can help keep the material from becoming sticky and dirty. After drying, use a blush brush or a cocoa shaker to apply a powder to the outside of the onahole. Stickiness is a property of molding and material. Van der Waals forces are what causes the stickiness, and surface area plays a large part of how sticky it gets. Despite looking smooth, there can be microscopic cliffs and overhangs, resulting in a large surface area than what we perceive, thus becoming sticky. The stickiness can also be caused by the plasticizer leaking out. Putting a hole in a bag with powder and shaking rigorously isn’t a surefire way to cover all areas, as non-porous bags may stick to the surface and make it more difficult for powder to reach that place.
The kind of powder you use doesn't matter! Feel free to use fine Cocobolo or rosewood sawdust!
Comparing Talc and Corn Starch:
Inhalation: They're both powders, they're small, they're both health risks. Inhaling copious amounts of both substances will engage mucus membranes along your respiratory system, and your body will try its best to fight it off. Corn starch particles are rounded, where talc particles are jagged. How efficient your respiratory system removes these particles is currently not known, but an exponential decay is expected.
Food Grade: Means it's safe for ingestion, and generally prolonged body contact. I would rather bathe in something I can eat or drink, than in something that feels nice. Remember that talc only feels smooth because of Van der Waals forces. Food grade talc exists as an anti-caking agent as the most popular use, and the FDA allows a maximum of 2% in food salt as an anti-caking agent.
Usage on Holes: Both are smooth, but for different reasons. Under a microscope, corn starch is rounded, whereas talc goes in jagged slates. Corn starch rolls around and absorbs moisture. Talc that is on top of the hole repels other talc particles due to Van der Waals. How talc affects TPE/your holes in the long run can possibly be ignored.
Storage with Corn Starch and Talc: Both last indefinitely, and will only house bad things if improperly stored. Store in an airtight container away from sunlight.
Talc based powders, while aren't just pure talc, will have additives and preservatives and other things that can get nasty in the right conditions, that aren't hopefully reached. Either way, store both with care.
Both powders work for the purpose of avoiding dirt, lint and dust sticking to onaholes, they both pose different risks and have different properties. Use of either is fine. If you have an empty spice shaker of sorts, feel free to use it to sprinkle powder.
Reading Material:
The following were taken from CIR(https://www.cir-safety.org/):
The purity and form of talc or corn starch powders can have large variations, and the deaths and illnesses reported in the CIR reports were taken from an era where information regarding experiments were scarce, often unrecorded and untested. The reports do state that there are missing information that plays a critical role in determining the results. Check ingredient and their percentages if you want.
It is not necessary OR RECOMMENDED to powder the hole's insides. PAT DRY, DO NOT DRAG. Dragging rough rags across the onahole may be abrasive to the surface and cause ugly ripples.
Most vendors sell onahole storage bags at low prices. These are good add-ons to any order that keep your hole clean and discrete. Be sure not to let onaholes touch as different types of rubber can "melt" each other through contact. Heavy Ziplock freezer bags and tupperware work just as well. When storing, be sure that they are dry and are free of loose debris such as tissue fibers. Creasing may occur when an area of pressure is placed on the surface for a prolonged period of time, such as with bags folding when storing, and can be remedied by storing the holes with their original plastic packaging cut for ease of use. NLS has these small bags and these ones for bigger things like hips.
If you are concerned about the health of your onaholes during storage, feel free to store them in a container , along with desiccants such as uncooked rice and silica gel packs. The container doesn't need to be airtight, but at least guard your belongings from itty bitty insects or even dust.
Should you choose to do so, ensure that the tunnel openings are not blocked. To avoid creases, stop creasing up the toy bag.
Store away from direct sunlight, heat and pressure. Prolonged pressure such as dumping them in a bag in a closet for a year will deform them due to creep. Don’t forget to zip the bags up and put them somewhere insects and other creepy crawlies can get into.
Hide your onaholes however you want - only you can determine the urgency to hide. Common hiding places include shoe boxes, drawers and under your bed. Less common hiding places include
Magic Fat Pack boxes, suitcases with combo locks and even a cabinets with locks. Make sure to scale your hiding place with your collection, you don't want to have to worry about people finding your homeless onaholes. Use your creativity when finding hiding spots.
BEFORE ANYTHING:
After you get it in the mail, examine it when it comes out of the box but keep it in the bag. If its visibly broken, don't open the bag, contact the seller, and get a refund or replacement.
It's not uncommon for an onahole to become damaged due to age, neglect, or manufacturing defect. If you want to try your hand at repairing a toy that has developed a rip or tear, the tool of choice is an adjustable-temperature soldering iron. A complete guide to toy repair can be found at http://forum.toydemon.com/index.php?topic=99.0
Before attempting a soldering repair, be certain that your toy does not contain phthalates. Even if minor exposure to the fumes or even the material itself causes only minor health disruptions, the sheer breadth of the vital health problems it causes isn't worth sealing up some superficial tears in your toy.
That said, if your cyberskin product is phthalate free (or if you really could not give a damn either way), the procedure is remarkably simple, quick, and effective. Open a window to get some ventilation going. The fumes can and will cause headaches if you get a nose full. Now it's just a matter of understanding the principles of the material repair which is idiot proof.
This all must be done within maybe 1 second or less, so work quickly.
What you want to do is use the iron to QUICKLY melt/liquify the walls of the split area and then quickly force the split back together. It should melt instantly and It should resolidify almost as instantly so, again, you have roughly 1 second to do this. Tada! all done. If you are working with a very large split, you will want to do this is segments, starting by sealing the further part of the tear and slowly working your way towards the front. If you screw it up, don't worry. It shouldn't take you more than a single attempt for you to realize what you need to do. Just start over and get it right this time.
You may be left with a few black singe marks if you weren't fast enough, but this is of no worry. You can either leave it as-is or treat the area with some dabs of bleach.
A soldering iron is essential for a good repair. Attempts at using chunks of metals, such as knives or needles will result in an uneven application of heat, resulting in a difficult operation. If you don’t have a soldering iron, either get one or don’t bother with the repair. Do not combust, as it will degrade everything, releasing noxious fumes. GET PROPER VENTILATION.
4e. Lube Alchemy
See: https://coom.tech/index.php?title=Toys#Lube_Alchemy
So far, at least four anons reported genital infections of some sort (soreness, forming of bumpy rash, skin peeling off) from using unclean holes. It's unknown if this was fungal or bacterial, but sanitization is something that needs to be taken very seriously for exactly this reason. These moist, humid holes (oftentimes with decaying organic matter still in them) are ideal breeding conditions for both bacteria and molds. Clean your toys thoroughly unless you want to lose the ability to fap for the next couple weeks. Also don't forget to wash yourself after a fap.
One anon has had a Candida infection, a fungal infection, by using a hole he has used the day prior, which was unwashed, still filled with lube and seminal fluid. He has reported bladder pain, pain during urination, pain upon sugar intake(it’s a fungus!). He was out of lube and used a used hole he used the day prior without cleaning.
Using a hole for prolonged periods can be fine as long as it's generally plugged up with your (hopefully) rather clean dick. This way, contaminants from your bed or elsewhere won't go in, and the inside stays sealed up. If you wake up well, well after the deed has been done, be sure to wash yourself up well, clean your hole and inspect very carefully for any foreign growth.
Got a new hole, a weird redness, soreness on the skin, despite being clean and washed and immaculate? You might be allergic to something! It's not as rare as you'd think!
Leaving lube on skin for prolonged periods of time may result in dryness, flaking and possibly even allergic reactions. Be sure to clean yourself well. If a quick wash doesn't get rid of all the lube, it might warrant a nice shower.
Bacterial growths are often superficial and feed on organic matter, while mold can reach deep down into the onahole itself. Should there be a growth of sorts, you can try 70% isopropyl alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Prolonged superficial exposure of 70% isopropyl alcohol might lead to damage such as superficial cracking and splitting, but currently lacks detailed evidence.
Exposure to hydrogen peroxide should be safe as it decomposes into water and oxygen. Sterilization through boiling isn't recommended, as you require the hole itself to heat to the boiling temperature of water, and that may result in deformation. Be careful when using previously infected holes, as they can still harbor whatever infected you. A single onahole costs less than 100 USD, but you can't get your dick back for that much.
If you have bacterial or fungal infections, you can take regular doses of antibiotics or apply topical antibacterial/fungal creams, taken with good hygienic practices if you don't want to go outside. However, it can become difficult to assess the severity or nature of the infection without some knowledge. Home remedies exist, too, so don't forget them. If it persists for more than 3-5 days, go to a doctor or a dermatologist.
People have gotten into trouble with religious parents over this stuff. Be careful.
Don't show your girlfriend or wife unless you know they're going to be cool with it. You don't want her feeling like she's being replaced. This may cause problems.
Of course obey all laws and regulations about importing questionable age content.
We get these every thread guys. Here they are. Even broken into sections for you.
General/Biggus Dickus:
Small Pecker:
Ideally these recommendations are for our smaller friends who can't enjoy the bigger, stretchier holes out there.
Loli Holes:
Oral:
Uterus:
Stimulating Holes:
Basically anything in "Hard"
Hips and Small Torsos:
Tits:
Monmusu:
Weird Shit and Chink Shit:
(I'm not gonna give a shit about names anymore) Note: Wiki Edit, Please Add The Names When Adding New Stuff. When links Go Down, It Can Make It So People Can Find The Product Elsewhere.
To submit your own, post it in the Discord. You may also reach me at [email protected]
USE OUR NEW TEMPLATE https://pastebin.com/cRzJZabp (https://archive.is/mhlbY)
Rjob Reviews:
AKD4Infinity (updated 12/30): https://pastebin.com/mRarc3Tp (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
High Schooler's Smell (Big Tits Ver.): https://pastebin.com/wKpzLp7d (https://archive.is/ItXuT)
Price: 10.15$ via NLS Link: https://en-nls.com/pict1-38081?c2=36100015
It smells like flowers. It has a scent of arousal under the flower bouquet. It smells like the shit girls sprayed on themselves after gym in high school. Perfume and pheromones. Its aite. 10$ is a bit much tho. You could just buy perfume for that price. I tested it on my daki. It does make her smell nice, and more enjoyable to sleep with. I don't think its how Miku would smell though. I'll have to keep looking for that.
7/10 Realistic girl smell. 10$ price tag a bit steep.
~Rjob
Squamate Hole (Mermaid Hole): http://pastebin.com/DKF1iAdy (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
Anonymous Reviews:
6/20/17: Puni Ana, Puni Ana Fuwatoro and AGM Ver1 Alice - NoodleCandy: https://pastebin.com/92BMb8qh (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
7/20/16: Tits of Utea - L A I N https://pastebin.com/S1QhdiKX (https://archive.is/SUzBP)
Tits of Utea Grace/魔獣浄化少女ウテア ウテア・グレースおっぱい Review, v1.0 by l a i n
General Info:
- Intercourse Simulated - Paizuri
- Producer - KMP
- Purchased from - NLS for 125 GBP
- http://en-nls.com/pict1-44128?c2=9999
- Toy Bag Size - Very big.
Variables:
- Lube - Onatsuyu, spit and some home-made Xanthan gum lube.
- Warmed - Warmed in shower.
- Penis - 8.2” Length, 6.2” Girth, uncut.
The Review:
Box:
No comment on original box (accidentally opted to remove it). All I can say is that the NLS packaging was more than suitable for the UG, with multiple layers of bubble wrap encasing a very soft and thick foam layer surrounding the Oppai, which had been sitting flat facing up. No damage even to the UK routed through china, so hopefully that says enough. Original packaging should make this experience even better (and is very much recommended for storage, these are heavy and WILL require being stored flat or in the correct original casing. Otherwise they will crease and deform due to weight.)
Onaho:
Okay, first of all I will start off with weight, as this is probably the first thing you will notice when you get this delivered. It’s heavy. at 4kg, you need to be prepared to fashion some ways to use it effectively (I will talk about this further down). This may make storage a problem for those in cramped environments, it requires two hands to move it without risking deformation and needs to be stored flat otherwise the sheer weight of the breasts will deform it over time. However, this weight certainly has its benefits for Paizuri, and I find that although it does not quite represent the huge size of Utea Grace’s original bust size, it comes as close as it could before it would seriously become more hassle to use than anything. You can really push and pull the breasts apart from the nicely weighted base, allowing for a whole lot of pressure on your dick. With two hands you can very easily adjust how much pressure you want at that moment in time, and the Oppai will even wear bras and bikinis perfectly fine given you set it atop of a pillow etc.
I find that the size is absolutely perfect for my girth/length. Paired with the very realistic weight I find that my penis can entirely disappear between the breasts on the UG. The inclusion of the neck portion of the torso is also very nice, and makes putting a bra on it seem very natural, with the well sculpted ‘bones’ (these are only casted protrusions, not a different material). This also makes cleanup a little bit easier, as the extra material at the top has a tendency to catch semen, just like a real pair of breasts would.
The texture is nice, however I have read many reviews praising the Ai-chan as being super-soft, where these seem more like a slightly peach-fuzz-ish rubbery material at the beginning. It is however great for paizuri as an uncut man, as with minimal lubricant it has a nice medium grip on your penis as the breasts move up and down the shaft, giving an utterly heavenly soft, pressured feeling. After a few cleanings and powderings, I find that the skin develops more of a realistic feel (powdering with talcum). It’s low friction until you put more pressure on it, just like real skin.
The colour is also quite nice, this was one of my major worries upon dropping this much on Oppai (as one of the most expensive on the market) but as soon as I had opened it my fears were calmed. It is much less saturated and unnatural in real life than the product photos make it out to be, following more of a yellow-ish skin tone not unlike that of a faded tan.
If you’re worried about leaking/smell, I do not think you have much to worry about with UG. Being built from a single material the whole way through, there is no fear of ‘deflation’ of the sorts seen from Magic Eyes Oppai with Gel inserts (due to shoddy QC). Initially the skin will leak some plasticiser and smell fairly pungent, but after a few washes I have found that this has almost entirely vanished, leaving no traces of wetness on paper when left on for some hours. The smell remains (and as far as I know will always remain) if you get right up to it and take a deep breath; I mask this with talcum or a perfume. From a standing/sitting position I can’t smell it at all.
Positions and Use:
As the Utea Grace Oppai are fairly heavy, your options for where you can use them is somewhat limited (at least vs. a conventional onahole). For standing use, I have an adjustable table that I cut holes in to route bra straps through. This ends up giving a perfectly (optionally, of course) hands-free experience. However if your housing situation is more limited, another option is to set it on to a pillow. From there you can strap it up with a conventional belt (how lewd!) or a bra/bikini. Like this you even have the option of laying on your back and pulling it up and down as if a woman were doing all the work for you; Or using it in much the same way, sitting on your knees and simply thrusting manually. For each individual experience I will say that you will have to do some experimentation to find what’s right for you. If you’re as mad about Paizuri as I am this will be more fun than anything.
Because this is an inherently low-stimulus toy (objectively speaking), reaching climax may take longer than usual relative to other Onahole toys. Personally I have no problem with this, the adjustable pressure using my hands or bra straps makes for an excellent edging experience. But if you prefer quick sessions, perhaps starting with an onahole and finishing with these (or vice versa) may be more to your liking.
Notes:
As these are largely an aesthetic pleasure, you may want to keep extra care of these. Be careful how tight you strap things on to it, how hard you squeeze and be sure to never use unsuitable oils, this will result in the TPE balling up and degrading eventually. Personally I have not seen any damage from squeezing them (and thank god, it really is a pleasure) but it is always a possibility. Use your head and it will be fine.
Washing and powdering will take a while. I use bar soap and warm water to later and rinse off, then I pat dry (dragging will make these ripple, I’ve tested it on the back side). Powdering will be messy, but perhaps more simple than with a hole due to, well, the lack of a hole. I suggest powdering them before use again, even lightly, as squeezing and pulling on the unpowdered material has the potential to create unsightly ripples.
Conclusion:
When I initially purchased these on a horny high, I felt regret right up until I got my first squeeze as I opened the box. Right there was when I knew I had made no mistake. If you love paizuri, I will whole-heartedly recommend these to you. They are as real as it gets for general shape, and as big as it gets until you step up to the Chicufueta from Hotpowers, which on the flipside is incredibly hard to obtain in the first place, with preorder waiting lists spanning right the way in to Feb 2017 (this review being written in July 2016), and lacks the neck portion and square base (I will buy and review these when I can, however).
At the price I think they are very much worth it. Of course, the conventional option of Busty Ai-chan exists, but those are not nearly as huge as these are. If you love big breasts, these are worth every penny.
12/19/15 - Puni Virgin Mini: https://pastebin.com/ZjCmfJLY (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
6/19/15: - Anon Reviews * Lolinco - https://pastebin.com/Vhf3Mgwf (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link) * Vibra Cup - https://pastebin.com/wCXyxVXL (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
6/13/15: - Mr. Science Guy's reviews. * Mitsugekka - https://pastebin.com/ZMj8p6PQ (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
4/1/15: Bunny Girl's Hole, Wild Animal Hole, Others https://pastebin.com/zJaekJC5 (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
3/18/15: Hot Gimmick https://pastebin.com/uetw9xZW (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
3/06 Lube Reviews - australian guy: https://pastebin.com/i87MmAh7 (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
Rina, Roa, Lolinco AKA Magic Eyes Essentials: https://pastebin.com/JEDZcq1w (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
Tsun Ero, CQ Roll, Nekokko Minyan, Kunoichi normal: https://pastebin.com/LRvTQ2kn (https://archive.is/DQk62)
These were not written by me, only copy pasted for posterity.
CQ Roll: I'm actually really disappointed in this one. I bought it to blast at on my desk, but it's nowhere near heavy or grippy enough to stay put when I push it in any direction but straight down. It should be noted that my desk is lower than I thought at first which I can't blame the hole for, but I still can't see it working on a smooth surface. The texture is just okay, not really gentle or really intense which puts it strictly at "eh" tier for me since I tend to like the extremes though the tightness was actually perfect. I also found it to be really goddamn firm. We mock Tenga products for being dick graters all the time but I've owned a Flip Black and this was easily on par with that if not harder in terms of material stiffness. That little knob towards the front was also present in my Tenga. Also: lube. Lots of it. I mostly went with Honey Drops since I was familiar with it but I found I needed around three times as much over the course of my experiment as I would've thought. I was doing some hole swapping so my chinchin was exposed to the air more than usual, but still. I started with the CQ Roll first then quickly left it aside for my other acquisitions; it doesn't work handsfree where I wanted it to and the feeling is middling at best.
Nekokko Minyan: I let this warm up a little bit on my Rends heater before I put it in. The hole didn't melt, but I did; this thing is OLEV. So I happen to love spiral toys and there's this two type spiral thing going on in the Minyan. The first stage is a bunch of really tight screw style spirals. I didn't really feel the individual ridges here so much as a pure dick-tingling pleasure. You can do shallow thrusts into this part to make yourself climax faster, but they're still nice when you're full thrust stroking with the toy. Attached is an artist's rendition of my visage immediately after insertion due to this portion of the hole. Past the first half or so the texture transitions into something that reminds me of a drill bit with ridges across it. This portion was also pretty damn good and made deep thrusts very rewarding. As for material, no complaints. I think it is or is close to Toys Heart's Baby skin which as far as feeling goes is an excellent material. Overall I think I actually like this hole more than my Lilith Spiral Wave in soft, but for different reasons. If ever I feel this thing is near breaking I'm ordering a new one ASAP, as I don't want to be without one anymore. Definitely my favorite of the group.
Tsun Ero: It's here, it's clear, get used to it! Let me preface this by saying that this is... now a nine dollar hole? It was $7.50 when I bought it a week ago. Seems less worth the price now. Anywho, it was alright. The first thing I noticed was that it's really tacky. It's clear, so I guess that comes with the territory and I didn't personally mind, but that fact did stand out. It's also crystal clear, even watching the paper towel go in when I cleaned it before use was fun to watch. After that I got to putting it in. Kinda. I knew the hole was short before buying it, but I didn't realize how short until I actually went to insert: I put myself in all the way to the bottom and half my dick was hanging out below feeling left out. Turns out the guy holding it in the image has tiny asian hands. Go figure, right? So what do I do then? I stretch the hole to make it fit, because fuck any sex toy that can't handle my length. That part didn't feel like much, but watching it bulge around my man meat was really empowering. Kinda "I am virgin, hear me roar," you know? That aside, the entire hole reflected what I felt upon initial insertion: not much. The ring right before the womb was nice, but the ones at the entrance are hard to use because it feels like you're going to pop out. I found that the womb, as with other womb toys, doesn't feel like anything unless you seat it on your head and spin it, but at least entering it was noticeable. The Tsun Ero also deserve credit for suction: there's not much texture to it, but what was t here stuck to my cock like it was glued on. Sadly I didn't get to see myself burst inside of it because Minyan caught me off guard, but it was still an okay toy for the cost, even though I fully expect to break the thing within five uses. Kunoichi Normal: The little hole I couldn't. I ended up playing with this one a little before I even tried to fuck it. First things first it smells like hell coming out of the box. After two washes that's fading, but I really wish something could've been done about that to start. The thing flips if you sneeze at it which is nice, I tested it a little to see what would happen and it was halfway turned before I realized it, a real plus for cleaning. The material is a little floppy but otherwise feels great in the hand. The texture is remarkably mild, but what I did feel I wanted more of. This hole's sensation is definitely way far down on the gentle side of the scale, even eclipsing my Venus Clone soft in that regard which is an accomplishment. I feel like if I'd gone for soft I wouldn't feel anything at all so I'm glad I got normal, but again, I'm cut.
Sadly I didn't get much out of this one on my first experience since I only messed with it a few ways before things went horribly wrong. See, I'd just discovered that if you hold only the very top then push down you can pull up at a speed that lets the hole stretch out and slide back up to meet your hand, kind of like a slinky or a dick yo-yo. That was nice, letting the little bumps and grooves caress me at the hole's own pace, but then something snapped and I felt this powerful need to impregnate my Kunoichi. I went at it HARD. This is not how the Kunoichi should be used and I know that, but even though I'd already cum once that teasing sensation got to me. I'll need to try again when I'm not even thinking of cumming and just ride the waves, but what I did feel here I liked.
And that's about it for the reviews. I can't comment on how I liked the Golden Lotion as of yet, but I found out after using it that the Kunoichi came with a sample of Pepe Jasmine which sounds nice.
Oh, I should also add that I'm about 6.5" and cut. YMMV.
Lilith Uterus + Mouth of Truth: https://pastebin.com/Ezyyf1WR (https://archive.is/05CqE)
Got my lilith uterus soft and mouth of truth yesterday! I've used two different npg meikis before and a korean meiki toy so I'm not new to onaholes.
Here are my initial thoughts:
lilith uterus soft: It's the softest hole I've gotten and it is very soft to touch. The interior is somewhat plain and ordinary but this is not to say that it is a bad hole. It's nice and gentle. I didn't really notice the uterus part but I probably need to use it a few more times. Also, being able to flip the hole to clean it is great. I don't think I can go softer than this, so I'm going to avoid the very soft tomax toys in the future.
mouth of truth: This was amazing. If you have used several holes before and want to try something different, you need to get this now. The tongue, teeth and deep interior is great. You get all different kind of sensations for taking it slowly or going quickly. Staying at the entrance and going deep both give different feelings and they're both good. Instead of pulling you in like most holes, this hole feels like it's trying to pull you back out or push you on top. Very fun toy and would highly recommend.
Takuya the Blowjob Master - "SI13NT": https://pastebin.com/WF0GXSzD (https://archive.is/R8Sco)
Takuya The Blow Job Master Review by Sil3nt, sorry Rjob stole your template. (PS. Yes that's what I usually go by and yes I made it when I was 13. Don't comment on it, remember all the money I'm saving you anons by finding out that you should switch to yen on nls.)
General Info:
- Intercourse Simulated - Oral
- Producer - Rends x タクヤ(Takuya)
- Purchased from - NLS for ¥2,570
- http://en-nls.com/pict1-38358?c2=9999
- Toy Bag Size - Medium will probably work, but Large to be safe.
Variables:
- Lube - Pepee(Normal)
- Unwarmed
- Fapped night before
The Review:
Box Art - 1/10. For obvious reasons, it gets a one as the box is nice non-bendable cardboard, unlike other onas that are more flimsy.
Review:
Build Quality and Material: First off, this is made in China and not Japan, thus quality is not as good as a normal Japanese ona. The entrance split after first use, although not much(much less than other onas) and thus I'm happy with how it holds up(for reference I need a large condom, so if your small this might not even be a problem). The entrance also has some stretch marks due to the poor material. The material is quite weird, the first 3/4 is a normal, maybe even a hard texture(at least it is on the hard side of normal); the last 1/4 is a soft material, this however isn't felt too much as a bit of it is taken up by the back wall, leaving only about a thumb width of soft material. Ultimately, the material just feels hard, the soft part not really being able to be felt, as it does not even cover the full glans. The back wall is quite thin, thus susceptible to breaking. The material is non-sticky which is fantastic and does not really need to be powdered.
Feeling and Lube: The entrance is very large and so is the actual hole, so there is lots of room to move; it therefore requires lots of lube, which is very unusual for Pepee's. The excess room in the hole traps a lot of air, which can be squeezed out, in turn providing a decent suction(the back wall gets sucked inwards quite a bit). It does not really feel all too much like an oral hole, the tongue is really not felt, only the suction eludes it to being an oral hole.
Cleaning: is very easy with such a large entrance. There is a typical rends smell to the ona, which faded significantly after cleaning(it is compatible with the onashaker). Drying is also simple with the sticks sold at Hotpowers(http://www.hotpowers.jp/goods/1-906.html), as there is not much room under the tongue and if needed is easy to get fingers in to wash and dry.
Buyers remorse?:
Kind of, it isn't too bad, but at that price I did expect a little better from the "Blow Job Master".
Conclusion:
Go with the Mouth of Truth, it is a much better oral hole or if you already have the MoT I would skip over this hole. Ultimately, I was a little disappointing and I would only recommend it if you were either homosexual or were looking for a hard oral hole, as I haven't seen one before.
Final Score: 6.5/10
Half-Mature Succubus White Ver.: (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link) https://pastebin.com/ZtXMjzB4
Short Smell Reviews: https://pastebin.com/Cizkdfj9 (https://archive.is/JuQ2u)
These smells products just smell "girly" to me. They do not smell like pussy or pheromones. Spraying it on dolls or clothing does give it something extra though. Golden rule with these things is not to spray on too much. A little works wonders.
PANPAN [パンパン]2 http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00D1I6E2Q/ Very low quality pantsu come with this one. Smell is very chemical, artificial. Smells kind of "fruity", but not natural, like bad shampoo... or something. Disappointing. It does last a long while! But it doesn't smell good so uh..
女子校生の匂い~オシャレ系少女の香り~ http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B0079T352K/ http://en-nls.com/pict1-32953 This one is really popular on amazon.co.jp, it's tamatoys' best-selling one. And for a reason. I can't explain well but I love it. I'm having a hard time writing down what it smells like. It smells fresh. Girly. Kind of subtle. Not that long-lasting though. But man is it good, in my opinion.
ふわっと香る女子校生の髪の匂い#1~清楚な黒髪系女子校生~ http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00AF3KT9O/ http://en-nls.com/pict1-33715 This one smells more pheromone-like. Or maybe body odour? Goes for a more "authentic" smell. It's kind of subtle but it's nice. It's not amazing, but nice.
女子校生の匂い~清楚な委員長の香り~ http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00EXFT7JS/ http://en-nls.com/pict1-38080 Hmm this one is kind of difficult. It smells very "fresh", like, maxed out on "fresh". It makes it smell like generic unisex deodorant, though. Hardly very girly. Worse, spray too much and you even start to smell a bit of "old people" in it.
Update: Got these two new ones, pic related. Both are really good, 5/5 totally worth the 907yen.
女子校生の匂い~妹系下級生の香り~ http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00EXFU030/ http://en-nls.com/pict1-38082 This one is so much better than the other one in the line. Smells like body odour and/or hair, but still having something sweet in it. Really nice one.
女子校生の匂い~巨乳図書委員の香り~ http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00EXFTWM0/ http://en-nls.com/pict1-38081 This one smells at least as good as the very popular 女子校生の匂い~オシャレ系少女の香り~. It's super sweet and girly smelling, definitely one of, if not my absolute favorite. Amazing as far as these products go.
Well whether any of these are worth buying is entirely up to you, it's really a novelty item but they're pretty damn good if you give them a chance. Especially fun if you have clothing, daki, etc to spray it on.
Slut Announcer + Neko MI-NYAN https://pastebin.com/LpQ9mCus (Dead Link, Post Directly Below In Quotes and Archive Link)
This section is totally heterosexual in nature, and for educational purposes only. (You can watch fellow /ona/holers screw their toys.)
Link: https://pastebin.com/ZcaVZgrd (Dead Link, Post Links Directly Below and Archive Link)
Here are a few other miscellaneous videos and channels that are relevant:
These are old pastebins. The following content was not written for 2015 and therefore may be out of date:
https ://pastebin.com/XcHnXfsR (https://archive.is/wip/Hx0OJ)
The Toucan Staff:
Anon Contributions:
Contact info:
© Rjob, 2014-2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction of this guide is NOT allowed. If you would like to use the guide please email me and we can discuss.
DISCLAIMER: I do not endorse breaking the law in any state or province of any country. All information presented in this guide is for educational use. Use the information in this guide at your own risk.
Wiki Edit: ''I hope it is understood the reasoning behind posting this guide here. Lots of the Pastebins are already dead. The intention was not to steal material, and I have provided ALL original sources. The emails were all readacted, and I am unaware how to reach out to Rjob. I (transferer) do not use Discord, if another reader wants to attempt contact, feel free. I hope this is understood, and is only meant to archive the content. I did mention that I was working on this on the 4chan /jp/ /ona/ thread, and nobody said anything besides thank you.
/ona/ can feel free to edit this directly as they see fit, and use this instead of relying on Pastebins (and ControlC bins). Imo this wiki provides much nicer, cleaner formatting. It can help maintain consistency, as well as stay up to date. I did not change anything besides formatting, a few general words to be more clear in some areas (very rarely did I change anything), and I provided the original sources with archive links wherever I could. Any links that were dead, I left and simply marked them as dead. Again, this was an attempt to spread the information, and keep it archived in a more readable format. I hope this is understood and appreciated. If there truly are any issues, feel free to open a discussion, and it can be discussed maturely. Also not an excuse, but I genuinely did not see this area until I already worked on the entire rest of the guide, and reached this at the bottom. Going through this took me hours. -Coomer002''
This guide has attempted to answer the problems that are coming up every thread, from recommendations to customs, and more.
Note: Please avoid adding, changing, or removing content in this section. It is intended to be a copy of the source material. If you have more to add, simply create a new section in the wiki! Note: This is a copy with extremely minor changes, and formatting edits to conform to the wiki. The purpose of the copy is to to help spread the information, and ensure longevity and archival of said content. The original sources are linked directly below.
Courtesy of /jp/. ControlC: https://controlc.com/e8000130 ControlC Archive: https://archive.is/tHxmi Pastebin Archive: https://archive.is/Wutpd
Doll mfgs *good mid teir dolls, priced 1-3k or so
Silicone: * dsdoll dsdoll.us or exdoll.com (sister sites, all models available from both, also dsdolleurope.com) (2-4.5k)
3rd parties(can be cheaper or more expensive, check with the mfg site) * thesilverdoll.com
Mexico Importer: https://mysilentpartners.wordpress.com/
Plush Doll Guide By Some anon Courtesy of /jp/ ControlC: https://controlc.com/21896f24
Anime Style Doll
http://sakura-dolls.com/124221236312426.html https://www.estartek.com/product-category/sex-doll/fabric-sex-dolls/
https://beautiful-dolls.com/fabric-love-dolls-c-1/ Also available from http://dollstudio.org/manufacturer/xingfu-wawa
https://iamdollusa.com/product-category/fabric-love-dolls/
twitter.com/loliconex User on twitter that does custom order anime plush dolls, these are probably the images you’ve seen of /ona/ when people are showing off plush sex dolls. They have magnetically attached interchangeable facial expressions. Note that they use automatic translation for communication with customers.
https://www.kanojotoys.com/honey-doll-moco-p-6256.html
https://www.kanojotoys.com/lip-lop-doll-so1-plus-p-3033.html
“Realistic” Style Doll
https://www.kanojotoys.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Dekunoboo
https://www.kanojotoys.com/yuka-love-doll--m-shape-p-442.html
Faceless Style Doll
https://www.toydemon.com/masturbators/dolls/plush-dolls/meiki-plush-evo-doll Also available from http://www.linnslingerie.co.uk/mekpl_meiki_plush_masturbator.htm
https://www.wanta.co.uk/en/Products/3183/Love-Venus-R-Love-Doll
https://www.kanojotoys.com/fairy-doll-momo-soft-thighs-black-hair-p-2602.html
https://www.kanojotoys.com/fairy-doll-full-body-suit-version-type-r-p-3509.html https://www.kanojotoys.com/fairy-doll-full-body-suit-version-type-a-p-3513.html
https://www.kanojotoys.com/angelic-doll-p-4505.html
Comes with a face mask.
Cartoon Style Doll
http://velourvixens.com/home.html
http://www.valentinagirls.com/sexrobot.html
http://www.teddy-babes.com/ Probably the worst looking set on the list.
Other Plush Hips & Torsos
https://www.kanojotoys.com/nuidoll-sewup-doll-kit-p-8757.html Inexpensive, between 50-70 usd, though you do have to get your own stuffing to fill it. Comparable to Meiki plushes, can use silicone breast inserts in the breasts.
https://www.kanojotoys.com/perfect-cushion-body-plush-doll-p-6437.html
https://www.kanojotoys.com/love-venus-s-plush-sex-doll-p-4559.html
https://www.kanojotoys.com/love-venus-doll-p-1634.html
https://www.kanojotoys.com/perfect-body-lightweight-memory-foam-doll-p-10574.html
https://www.kanojotoys.com/insert-futamata-cushion-pillow-p-5365.html Despite the name, the futamata is actually a type of dakimura insert that has a pair of legs and a hole insert.
Note; they also have a blow up option https://www.kanojotoys.com/insert-air-pillow-futamata-body-kai-remodel-p-5364.html
https://www.toydemon.com/masturbators/dolls/plush-dolls/meiki-plush-hip
Courtesy of /jp/. ControlC: https://controlc.com/9d4c2066 ControlC Archive:https://archive.is/wip/ma74w
OnaScience, The Revised Edition Updated as of the 8th of April, 2015
Before anything else, I would like to say that I am not responsible or liable for any damage caused by you or your peers regarding the information that is in this text. Everything contained in this text is for informative purposes only. As said before, I am not liable for any damage caused by ill-informed persons, misunderstandings, inaccuracies or lack of education.
I've written this text as an informative in order to clear misunderstandings and misconceptions mainly regarding the USB warmer, and to further expand the knowledge of the reader regarding one of a NEET's best friends - the onahole. This text will contain a lot of basic science, much of which I will not need to go in depth due to the application. This text will contain what I feel to be important in order to understand and fully utilize the tools readily capable to receive our love, attention, joys, sorrows and semen.
This section will cover materials.
In material science we have something called Young's Modulus, often shortened to E, as it is also known as the Elastic Modulus. According to Wikipedia, "Young's modulus, also known as the tensile modulus or elastic modulus, is a measure of the stiffness of an elastic material and is a quantity used to characterize materials. It is defined as the ratio of the stress (force per unit area) along an axis to the strain (ratio of deformation over initial length) along that axis in the range of stress in which Hooke's law holds." Pretty much sums it up. E is the gradient of the graph of stress(force) over strain(stretch). A low E means that the material is soft and pliable, like a bar of lead(Pb). High E means that the material is stiff, like a rod of steel.
A polymer is something that repeats in chains - poly meaning many, and mer meaning chain. I like the plastics part of polymers, since they're so nice and useful. Firstly, let me explain how these polymers work.
Polymers are chains, and the best way to describe it is like a plate of spaghetti without the sauce. The chains, in this case, a strand of spaghetti, are all tangled. If you pull on a strand at one end, the strand will pull out a bit, and as you keep pulling, the strand will start to drag the entire mix of spaghetti. Imagine that millions of times larger and you have a polymer that can stretch and move. These strands like to go back to their plate(just as if you're eating - no leftovers!), and this state is determined by entropy - the measure of disorder.
With heat added to the system, these chains begin to wobble and can stretch out a bit more easily, much like the finger's dexterity depending on temperature. There's something called a Glass Transition Temperature, which I will refer to as Tg, and a Melting Temperature, Tm. After the Tg has been reached, the material begins to soften, becoming malleable, its shape changeable, and becomes "rubbery". I am unsure about its classification, but I like to think that this state is like a very, very viscous liquid - one that holds its shape, but often deforms under gravity. Think melted Maglite cases in hot cars. Even further is the Tm, where the material can begin to flow freely and act like a liquid. Tg and Tm are two very distinct points, and the graphs for Young's Modulus against temperature are often a plateau sloping down then flattening out.
As for plastics, there's a Thermoset, and a Thermoplastic. Thermoplastics are able to go to and from Tg and Tm with relative ease, while Thermosets are "permanent" and breakdown their bonds when enough heat or energy is applied. Some pens are thermosets, and release nasty shit when you burn them. If it doesn't soften and return to it's original stiffness(or flexibility), it's most likely a thermoset. Thermosets are in general, stronger than thermoplastics due to their lack of change after the theoretical Tg. Thermoplastics, will change and morph depending on pressure and temperature. Plasticizers, make polymers softer and more flexible, and may leak over time. They're often used in hairpieces in figures, as they can be flexible.
Most onaholes are made of something called TPE, or Thermoplastic Elastomer. It's essentially a mix of two compounds: the elastomer, and a thermoplastic. It offers the temperature-based properties of a thermoplastic(hence "melting"), and have the elastic properties of elastomers. I'd like to think thermoplastics are hard and stiff, where elastomers have no form but are elastic - like a pen and a rubber band. Pthalates, are mainly used as plasticizers in the plastics industry, and is slowly being replaced in various nations due to varying health concerns and probable carcinogenic properties. UV radiation has the funny ability to ruin the bonds in polymers, resulting in cracking and degradation of the polymer. Leave a plastic shopping bag in the sun for a while and it'll crack and crumble.
There are many kinds of plastics, HDPE, LDPE, PMMA, PTFE and a hell of a lot more. I won't go into further detail regarding entropy, transparency because of our application.
Because of the nature of onaholes, I'll be treating them as a 100% thermoplastic.
This section will cover topics in relation to heat, but not including anything electrical.
Newton's Law of Cooling, also known as Convective Heat Transfer, basically states that the ambient temperature of the surrounding, will be the final temperature of whatever object is being studied, provided that the object and its surroundings does not interfere with each other's temperature. Graphs for these are often exponential(inverse or not) in nature, with the limit being ambient temperature.
Heat Capacity, is the amount of energy or heat, that needs to be applied for a mass of material to be raised 1 degree celsius. For liquid water, you'll need approximately 4000Joules to heat 1kg, 1 Celsius. Units are often J/kg/C, Joules per kg per degree Celsius.
C=J/mΔT; Heat Capacity in Joules per kg per degree Celsius = energy in Joules/(mass in kg * change in Temperature in Celsius)
Along with heat capacity, I've attempted to measure the heat capacity of one of my onahos.
"A delta T of 17C with 9kJ of energy provides us with a heat capacity of ~1324J/kg/C(as a result of 9kJ/(17C * 0.4kg)) Almost a quarter of what water has. I've made some approximations such as temperature, no heat loss and such, so this number should be a ballpark figure. Now, this could be wrong, but it's an estimate. This can be crucial to the amount of time you'll spend trying to heat the damn thing."
It turns out that I read my temperature readings lower than the actual temperature, resulting in a botched experiment. The heat capacity, should still be around that number, but I can't be exact.
This section quickly goes through Ohm's Law, electrical work, and bit of info.
Ohm's Law states that Voltage = Current * Resistance, or V=IR for short.
USB 2.0s on your average computer run a 5V 0.5A.
Joule Heating with Direct Current states that Power = Current * Voltage
Since the warmer produces heat via a laminated nichrome heating element, as confirmed by someone with a Dremel, we can assume that all energy is dissipated as heat, which is the intended outcome.
The warmer, when plugged via usb, has a power output of 2.5W. That's 2.5J/s. It is safe to assume that you can use your warmer with a wall charger offering a higher current.
As someone who has yet to dabble in the effects of a constant current varying voltage source compared to a constant voltage varying current source on a nichrome heating element, I am unaware of any effects the former option has on nichrome.
Some people like to use the USB Warmer, some people like to use warm water, some even like to put it between their thighs. It's preference. All three methods are so simple and easy that we forget how variables come into play. The differences between the two major parties, Warmer and Water, are so minimal that we can ignore it. Water rates, heating bills and such vary from person to person; it may be significant for one, minuscule for the other. I shall cover the topic of efficiency in the next section.
As previously stated, we tend to forget what the variables are. In this section, I will state the variables apart from TIME for all three methods listed in the previous section. I shall list common variables first, then the rest. I do all three, and still prefer to use the warmer. Again, it's preference.
Firstly, the warmer:
Secondly, water:
Thirdly, the thighs:
This section will cover the many reasons as to why people may prefer one method over another, and will discuss the variables listed in the previous section. Common variables will be discussed first.
Initial onahole temperature will determine how long you are likely to spend warming it. Ambient temperature will determine how fast or slow your onahole cools. Due to Newton's Law of Cooling, this applies especially for the water method. Lube quantity and temperature will determine how long a "buffer zone" of lube will need to be affected by the heat source; applies especially for the warmer.
Onahole properties are self explanatory. How one hole heats up is going to be different from another. All of these factors affect all heating methods. Contact surface area affects how much of that heat is transferred to the onahole, how fast or slow the onahole warms up or cools down. Contact surface area from least to greatest is: warmer, thighs, then water.
Firstly, the thighs. I find this rather comfy and lets me "bond" with my hole. I prefer to use this method as a form of keeping the heat in, rather than heating the onahole. Due to the temperature of the human body, reaching that steady state will take rather long.
Secondly, water. With the highest contact area, this method is easily the fastest. With the heat capacity of water, it doesn't take long before your onahole gets warm enough for you. However, due to its heat capacity, and depending on how your water heating system works, it may take a while before you get sufficiently warm water. As with the Law of Cooling, the warmer the water, the faster it gets to a certain temperature, and the rate slows down until it reaches ambient temperature, which is water temperature. This method takes up the most energy, thanks to the heat capacity. If you care about efficiency, don't forget that you have wastewater, heated water, evaporation and heat losses in the container. Again, these are so minimal we do not tend to see them.
Thirdly, the warmer. With the smallest contact area, I think where the area is, is key to heating. Luckily enough, that area is the tunnel. The power output of the warmer is adjustable, as one can easily change voltage or current inputs. In low power outputs, the rate of cooling can affect how fast the warmer warms up, thus I had put insulation as a variable. On its own, a warmer running 5V <0.5A outputs just enough power to have a little heat, but is barely noticeable by touch. Once put in an onahole, the warmer may have enough insulation to warm up and let the onahole keep the heat. However, that is not to say that the onahole does not lose heat. Heat loss via onahole will be the major factor apart from power output, to determine how long your onahole takes to heat. For me, a snug fitting sock remedies this just enough to have considerable reductions in warming time to a preferred temperature.
Lube plays an important part in the warmer, as it acts as a sort of buffer zone between the warmer and the onahole. Whatever the warmer does, it does to the lube first, then the lube does to the onahole.
There comes a point where heating breaks even with cooling. Do note that this depends on the variables. Don't try and find out what temperature this is. Because of the design of the onahole, the tunnel and how lube rests inside the tunnel, you'll have to play around with the warming time and see at what point you want to use your hole. The point at which you break even is going to be at such a temperature where the rate of heating is equal to the rate of cooling, reaching a steady state; this point is relative to your wattage. Higher wattage will result in a higher temperature "ceiling", and this is where most people should be worried with the warmer and its possible damaging effects. Lower wattage will definitely result in a longer heating time, but also a lower temperature ceiling. If the onahole isn't insulated(just bare, sitting there with a warmer), the ceiling temperature will be lowered because the rate of cooling is faster. "Melting" onaholes are because the user neglects the multiple variables. Most "melting", if ignored, happens because the onahole reaches near Tg, and the suction, gravity, or even the warmer girth forces the material to go out of shape from their initial mold.
Water does not need to be boiling for damage. A rolling boil, in which water and bubbles surge from an area upwards, will most definitely cause damage. Exposure to around 70 degrees Celsius for a short time may result in minor deformation via handling. 80 degrees and thin areas will begin to soften; the effects of reaching near the Tg are visible. More than 90 degrees and the onahole will definitely be past the Tg, and deformation due to handling will be visible. The Tm is probably in the 150s range, and damage to your onahole will be visible if you happen to come across superheated steam, but I doubt you will let your onahole be exposed to superheated steam.
The warmer is rated at 5V 0.5A, USB specifications. I do not know the effects of larger voltages on nichrome, but I do know that an increase in current should increase output. I use the warmer at 5V 1A, but I do not dare go past 1.5A for heating concerns. It is up to you if you want to use a 5V 3A tablet charger for faster heating times. Like with all things, I expect a decreased lifespan with an increase in power output.
The warmer's wires have been known to be flimsy. The repair section shall cover, well, repairs.
If you experience friction in the hole with the warmer, apply more lubricant in the right places. In the event that the onahole reaches near its Tg, minimal force is applied to pull the warmer out of the hole. If anything does happen, you have lube to thank. Inadequate lubrication on the warmer will result in areas where the onahole will stick to the warmer. Rubber on plastic doesn't have a nice coefficient of static friction, so keeping it lubed is essential. As for pulling warmer out the excessively warm onahole, the amount of force you apply pulling the warmer out(slowly, hopefully) hopefully is the same as the the amount of pressure the hole exerts on the warmer when it's inserted.
NLS does state that there was no thermostat in either warmer. There was never a thermostat in the first place. - "旧モデル同様、本作もUSB2.0端子(500mA)専用で、温度調整やサーモスタット機能などはありません。"
The warmer consists of a plastic shell with a laminated nichrome heating element rolled up inside the shell, wired to a usb cord protruding from the shell. NLS states that the warmer is not waterproof and care must be taken when cleaning with water.
The heat capacity of Nichrome is around 450J/kg/C, PVC having ~1000J/kg/C, and water having roughly 4000J/kg/C
NLS does state that there was no thermostat in either warmer. There was never a thermostat in the first place. - "旧モデル同様、本作もUSB2.0端子(500mA)専用で、温度調整やサーモスタット機能などはありません。"
Most damage is because of flimsy wiring. Shine a light through the warmer, cut up the warmer at the USB end and inspect. As for wiring, I prefer 18AWG. That's my personal preference, though, as I have tons of it, and I've used them for large current drawing devices such as LEDs. The insulation is also nice. For testing, either wire an LED in series, or have a voltmeter or similar instruments to test. Glue it back together. If the entire USB wire needs replacement, make sure you tie a knot in the warmer, and use high temp melt hot glue to seal the end.
Use Ohm's Law, Thevenin's Theorem and a basic understanding of electrical goods, a bit of googling and you should be able to wire up your own power source. All you need is a female USB connector.
Your local electronics shop should have some variable resistors. Wire some up with some electrical knowledge and you should be good to go. Remember that changes in temperature aren't instant.
Q. Can I use portable chargers? A. You can also use powerbanks or portable chargers. Make sure to look at the output. Most powerbanks output at 5V, but amperage varies. I wouldn't dare go past 1.5A, though.
Q. Will the warmer melt? A. For something designed to output large amounts of heat, I really doubt it unless the circumstances are ridiculous. Either it's a thermoplastic(but I doubt it is) that has a brilliantly high Tg, or it's a thermoset that has a high degradation temperature, the latter being the most likely. I have yet to succeed in destroying a common thermoset by heating it to 80 degrees Celsius.
Q. Does the warmer have a thermostat? A. No. Read the damn page on NLS. "旧モデル同様、本作もUSB2.0端子(500mA)専用で、温度調整やサーモスタット機能などはありません。" - "Like the previous model which was for USB 2.0(500mA) use, there is no temperature control or thermostat." Learn Japanese, use Rikai-chan/kun or equivalent.
Q. What about efficiency of the warmer against water? A. Heating water to a temperature that is adequate for warming your onahole takes much more energy than heating it with the warmer. The warmer, because its duty is to provide heat, is almost 100% efficient in converting all that energy to heat. Water isn't as efficient, as there will always be steam, runoff water and wastewater.
Q. Can the warmer melt the onahole? A. Yes, but under certain conditions, which, to the watchful eye, are hopefully never reached.
Q. How long should I put the warmer in? A. Do regular checks by putting your lips on the warmer and by testing the warmth of the onahole by inserting your finger with the warmer pulled out. If it's warm enough for you, go and have fun. This is dependent on your variables, mainly being power output.
Q. Which heating method is better? A. Subject to preference.
Q. X happened! Why did that happen? A. If you can provide the exact conditions as to how it happened, then we can find the source of the problem. Most of the time, it's ignorance or neglect.
Q. It takes forever to heat up the hole with the warmer! What do I do? A. Amp it up, literally.
Warmers aren't dangerous. They're just as dangerous as water.
Don't be a lazy ass and monitor your holes.
Yes, you can use wall chargers and powerbanks for the warmer, the amperage is up to you.
Larger amperage leads to higher wattage, faster warm time and higher temperature steady state.
Polymers don't melt in our usual operating temperatures, but may be susceptible to deformation due to their Tg. I'm sure companies already think about warming and operating temperatures when they design stuff.
The difference in cost and efficiency between water and warmer is minimal enough to be ignored.
Warmers can be a useful tool in a controlled environment, and serves as a dry alternative to heating with water. If done right, they are an effective way of heating the tunnel.
Stop sperging over the differences.
Note: Please avoid adding, changing, or removing content in this section. It is intended to be a copy of the source material. If you have more to add, simply create a new section in the wiki! Note: This is a copy with extremely minor changes, and formatting edits to conform to the wiki. The purpose of the copy is to to help spread the information, and ensure longevity and archival of said content. The original sources are linked directly below.
Courtesy of /jp/. ControlC: https://controlc.com/4aa13ae0 ControlC Archive: https://archive.is/fCqV0
Find the product code of a title you want from DLSite (https://www.dlsite.com/maniax) and search in these sites:
Help Wanted: These are centralized services and the content can be taken down at anytime, if you have the ability, please create torrents and share, or use a system like IPFS (or both). Also re-upload the content other to other sources such as PeerTube.
https://pastebin.com/hmXWdtjw (https://archive.is/HdRO8)
Note: Please avoid adding, changing, or removing content in this section. It is intended to be a copy of the source material. If you have more to add, simply create a new section in the wiki! Note: This is a copy with extremely minor changes, and formatting edits to conform to the wiki. The purpose of the copy is to to help spread the information, and ensure longevity and archival of said content. The original sources are linked directly below.
Courtesy of /jp/. ControlC: https://controlc.com/2a45aa1a ControlC Archive: https://archive.is/Ks4oP
This section will cover the importance and differences of different kinds of lubricants for your onaholes.
As mentioned earlier, all lubricants are not the same. They come in different viscosities and chemical makeups and different lubes are better suited for holes of varying densities (hardness) and texture structure. Also, as mentioned earlier, use only water based lubricants on your holes. Using random slippery substitutes can actually destroy your hole or otherwise lower the integrity significantly. In the case of cyberskin (eroskin, softskin, cyber jelly, UR3.0), the holy grail of flesh toys, using petrolium jelly (Vaseline) or silicone based lubes will completely destroy and melt the product.
Lubricants come a few kinds of varieties. Jelly type (KY, Pepee), Watery Slime type (Peaces, various Japanese "drool" products), and just the normal Goopy type (mystery lubes and pretty much everything else. While they all behave similarly, they are all made of different chemicals and dispersing agents. Generally speaking, you will want to use thinner lubes for harder holes with more vigorous texturing, and thicker jelly type lubes for softer holes with less aggressive texturing. In either case, don't overdo it. Start small as too much lube can ruin the sensation and also make a mess. Lubes really do make all the difference and finding the right one may take some experimenting.
It's understandable that in some situations, you may find yourself without a proper lubricant. These are viable solutions anons have come up with.
1) FLAX MUCILAGE - If you happen to have a bunch of flax seeds laying around, you can actually extract the goopy plant mucus from them to use as a lube very easily. Take 1 tbsp of seeds and boil them in 1 cup of water until the water reduces to about half. This should take about 15 to 20 minutes. Strain out the hulls and let the remaining liquid cool down. What you're left with is a golden or brown slime. This is your lube... It's also quite healthy, should you chose to eat it.
That's right. It's time to make things interesting. Maybe the lubricants you have aren't giving you quite the sensation your looking for, or maybe you're running low on a specific type, or maybe you're just feeling particularly creative. Mixing radically different lubes of different types can yield some better-than-storebought results, not to mention add another level to your fap experience.
A base that I'm sure most of you have by now in ridiculous amounts is J-Lube. If you don't have this yet, just get a bottle. It works for pretty anything and is a customizable lubricant (and sometimes a super fun time thick slime bath for you and your partner).
The J-Lube is powdered and acts a very effective binding and chemical chaining agent. Added to other lubes it gives them that silky, low-friction goodness that J-Lube naturally has. You can further change the properties of your custom lube by adding thick jelly type lubes to your concoction. This has a tendency to make everything try to clump into bunches and actually makes it drying resistant. Play around with different mixtures until you get something you find appealing. NOTE- in doing this, you may be adding certain chemicals to your mix may that may not want. Things like glycerine which has been proven to cause yeast infections in females that are prone to getting them... but we're males up in here and aren't quite so prone to yeast infections (providing we clean ourselves) so don't be afraid to get some glycerine or any other sucrose based chemicals into your mix. Just don't forget that anything containing sugar/glucose/sucrose/glycerine WILL spoil over time due to fermentation. In theory, mixing a lubricant containing acetate (vinegar, basically) or propylene glycol (a sweet multi-use chemical with preservative properties) into your concoction would stem the yeasts and greatly increase the shelf life. If you're sensitive, however, you might notice some irritation if you've used too much.
Finally, it's time for some fragrance. This can really add to your fap experience. The sense of smell is the most acute human sense and the one strongest tied to memory. Being able to capture the right scents and add them to your lubes can make a world of a difference in your fap experience. Different people are into different scents and as such, recommendations should all be taken with a grain of salt. Certain Japanese retailers already sell vials of various "smell fetish" aromas, but the selection is quite small and questionable if not nondescript. Still, these are a very simple solution to adding a "girl" fragrance to your lubes. Another great and simple method is to buy a product called "Pussy Juice Vagina Scented Lube". It's a crude name, but great product. The scent, anyway. The lube itself is sub-par for onaholes and is far better suited for use on your uninterested partner's desert of a vagina. The fragrance is what we're after here though. It starts off with a very strong smell mimicking the aromatic bouquet of a stripper. Her hair, her perfumes, all that good shit. With some friction, however, the lube's odor takes on a very distinct, but far from overpowering aroma of sex. Not vagina specifically, but sex in general. Saliva and fluids with hints of vagina - and it takes an undertone to the more dominant "stripper" scent. Goes well into any custom Lube you may be experimenting with.
Obtaining specific scents for your custom lube is less easy for a number of reasons. They generally don't mix well with the lubes, they tend to be irritant and simply obtaining them is either going to be expensive or just a lot of work for a busy bee. You can just get some female perfumes and be done with it and just pray they don't burn your cock off or you can map out exactly what aroma you're looking for and obtain them through natural means. Flowers (or, rather, the oils of them) are easiest to obtain as all you need is boiling water, the aromatic flowers and lots of steam. Fuck you. Some girls smell like flowers.
Now this part is hit or miss. You can obtain female pheromones from a number of places. They come concentrated and you will wish they didn't. Put one drop into medicine cup with some water and pour only half of that into your custom lube. You know you did it right when you can only subtly smell that awful shit... but because they are female pheromones or scents approximating them, they really get your horniness levels up. To be clear though - these scents are quite foul. They are supposed to be. There's something about the male mind (and this differs from person to person) that triggers profound arousal when catching the scent of certain female "funks". Some guys are into feet, some are into armpits, and some guys are into breath or urine or unwashed nether regions... The list is long. Buying bottled pheromones is a gamble as they are not scent specific, but finding the right one for you can really aid your experience when used gingerly.
Several anons have mentioned some "issues" that have arisen due to onahole use. Aside from the ones who got infections due to being generally unhygienic, there are numerous anons who claim to have some dryness or loss of sensitivity or even soreness/rawness from over-masturbation. The obvious solution is twofold and simple: stop fapping and keep yourself clean until you are healed. Failing that, it's time to create a healing lube.
Many anons seem to blame their dryness and lack of sensitivity on the fact that they are circumcised. Circumcision is a preventative measure and is entirely for the purposes of cleanliness. It has nothing to do with forcing your bell end to dry out so you enjoy sex less. The dryness comes from a lack of personal care and abuse. While your mind sees fapping as awesome, your body sees it as damage, because it is. Onahole use or fapping of any kind actually removes small amounts of skin every time you do it. The body responds to this the same way it responds to all skin damage - to replace it with thinker skin. This is how callouses get formed on the hands, how the feet become tough, etc. This can be reversed on the penis though (or any very tender flesh area, I believe.)
I'm going to do you a favor and TLDR this right now as "ADD VITAMIN E".
Anyway. Start your custom lube or just use a regular one. Just make sure it's fresh and leaves out everything like fragrance or any other gimmicks. I'd highly recommend using some KY Jelly in your custom mix because of its surgical and antiseptic properties. Get just under 500ml of the stuff prepared. For the test I did today I used Munna only those things - Water, J-lube, and KY Jelly. The KY Jelly is necessary because none of your favorite lubes (Peace's, Jlube, Astroglide, PePe) contain preservatives or astringents. In the absence of KY Jelly, I suppose amounts of aloe vera or an extract could be substituted due to the manifold antiseptic and astringent properties but I really have no idea about that.
dl-Alpha Tocopherol Acetate (liquid vitamin E you get in stores) should be fine to use. Just get a small bottle of the soft gels. You only need one at the 400iu dose. This stuff is perfect because it will actually mix into damn near anything in this form.
Let's Start Here: http://www.kyowa.eu/files/pdfs/TDS_DL-alphaTocopheryl_Acetate.pdf (dead)
Starting with ~400ml of hot water in a bottle, add enough J-lube to make it fairly thick followed by a couple good globs of KY Jelly. You don't need too much. Just a couple good quirts. Shake that fucker up until it's sufficiently mixed. The J-lube powder will probably not completely dissolve and disperse, but so long as you have something snotty-looking that is definitely lube, you're ok.
Now take one vitamine E softgel slice it open and squeeze the liquid into the bottle of lube. You'll notice it sitting on top and starting to change color to a candle wax white. Cap the bottle and invert it several times to mix everything together and let it sit for 1 hour at room temperature.
When you come back to it, you'll notice two things: 1- The mix is now completely opaque and white, and 2- The "lube" is no longer lube. This is because the Tocopherol Acetate, even in such tiny amounts, will unbind the polyethylene in the mix, effectively making it less congealed. The solution for this is to just dump some more J-lube in there.
Mix it all up as well as possible and let it sit once again. Let the chemicals and dispersing agents do their thing. 20 minutes to one hour later you should be met with a marbly white goo. Invert it several times to make the color uniform, add water to bring it to an even 500ml (the full bottle), mix it once more and that's pretty much it. You're good to go.
You now have a lube that will heal, re-moisturize, and return the sensitivity to your doodle while fapping.
Note that this is not an excuse to continue not taking care of yourself. It is one small measure for those not willing to give up fapping (or who have an addiction to it). You still need to stay clean and be less abusive to yourself. Also you need to eat more nutritious foods with better types of fats and drink more water, as this is how your body repairs itself and keeps the humors (fluids) balanced.
Note: Please avoid adding, changing, or removing content in this section. It is intended to be a copy of the source material. If you have more to add, simply create a new section in the wiki! Note: This is a copy with extremely minor changes, and formatting edits to conform to the wiki. The purpose of the copy is to to help spread the information, and ensure longevity and archival of said content. The original sources are linked directly below.
Courtesy of /jp/. ControlC: https://controlc.com/c6216c83 ControlC Archive: https://archive.is/ODIrB
Stolen from the internet by Rjob. Pasted for /ona/'s ultimate onahole guide found here: https://coom.tech/index.php?title=Toys#The_Toucan.27s_Guide_to_Onaholes 1/4/15
Amino acids, if taken regularly, are generally believed to increase ejaculate fluid. On the other hand, zinc seems to improve both the amount of sperm produced as well as the sperm's ability to move spontaneously and independently. Together with amino acids, this will increase normal sperm count and volume significantly. Amino acids are believed to increase ejaculate fluid (not the amount of actual sperm necessarily) if taken regularly.
Some Amino Acids Include:
Studies show sperm and semen volume doubles, fertility improves (even among men with low sperm counts or poor sperm motility), and sperm health and activity increase with supplementation. Arginine is found in high concentrations in nuts and seeds like peanuts and almonds. It can also be found in chocolate and raisins. Some Natural Sources: Nuts, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, chocolate, popcorn, raisins, brown rice, carob, gelatin desserts, oatmeal, whole wheat bread, and protein rich foods.
Researchers find that this amino acids plus zinc increases sperm produced, stimulates testosterone production, and improves semen quality.
Sometimes called "horny goat weed," this botanical boosts libido and testosterone levels for greater sperm production for a strong ejaculation.
Has been shown to increase number of sperm and sperm motility by 80% to 200% by aiding testosterone synthesis.
This amino acid is found in high concentrations in healthy sperm. Proven to significantly increase the percentage of highly motile sperm.
Brazilian herb that strengthens the libido, and nourishes the entire male reproductive system.
Supports prostate health and hormonal production. While they may not readily increase sperm volume, they do enhance prostate health and testosterone production.
Legendary South American botanical proven to promote libido, potency and energy.
Note: Not as miraculous as they make it sound, but regular zinc intake (50mgs a day) does increase quantity somewhat.
Whatever a pill company's claims are, you can probably do just as well with zinc and lecithin supplements. (Use zinc supplements in moderation; too much zinc intake can be dangerous.) For some guys, these nutrients do have a noticeable effect on ejaculation volume, and they're a lot cheaper and easier to get. In general, stay away from mail-order pills sold by less-than-reputable companies; you really don't know what's in them, and their claims are almost always untrue or at least greatly exaggerated.
While Kegel exercises can help you last longer, they can also aid in increasing sperm volume. There are a host of exercises you can do to keep your penis in great shape and shoot like a champion. Note: PC muscle exercises have proven to help reduce prostate troubles in advancing age, but I have yet to see improvements in my ejaculate's volume through this method
Frequency of sexual activity also contributes to volume -- although only to a certain degree. If you abstain for a day or two, you'll certainly produce more sperm than you would ejaculating every few hours. But any longer than this one- to two-day timeframe, and you won't see much of a difference, as semen reservoirs will have stopped building up a supply. Note: True, the body will evacuate excess semen through urine & etc. so abstinence over 3 or 4 days will not continue increase of quantity. Usually, 2 or 3 days should be enough to reach maximum potential... but there are exceptions!
And for those of you who wrote in asking if semen is a good source of protein, its protein content is roughly equivalent to that found in the egg white of a large egg. So you're probably best off sticking with the eggs.
Consistency of semen isn't very consistent; you've probably noticed that the thickness of your ejaculate can vary from day to day. This is because the quality of the fluid is very susceptible to a number of factors. Diet, exercise and frequency of sex can all dictate how thick or watery your emissions are, as can the tightness of the clothes that you wear (tight clothing will increase body temperature and can thus impact sperm motility.
While there is a lack of supporting scientific evidence, a number of ingredients are said to help thicken up semen. Because of their protein content, egg whites and gelatin are often recommended. Wheat germ, omega-3 oils, selenium, and zinc are all also believed to improve consistency. Note: Tomato-based products, soy-based products, oatmeal, and celery have also proven to help thicken the load, at least in my case!
Vitamin C, vitamin E, zinc, and essential fatty acids are found in the prostate in high levels, and are all necessary to produce semen. Low zinc levels have been connected to decreased production of seminal fluids, as well as lower testosterone levels. A healthy balance of nutrients is important for maintaining vascular health as well, which improves your ability to achieve and maintain erections. There isn't a need to go popping extra vitamins if you are already eating a diet rich in nutrients, particulary from fruits and vegetables. Essential fatty acids are found in certain kinds of fish (like salmon) and nuts.
Celery is one of food products known to have great properties for sexual stimulation. It contains androsterone, an odor free hormone which is very inviting for women. Raw celery is the best way to increase that desire. Oysters are rich in zinc and are know to increase sperm and testosterone production. It contains dopamine which increases the sexual desire. Bananas, Avocado and Almond or other nuts are some of the other food products which help in this matter.
Buttplug is an open-source standards and software project for controlling intimate hardware, including sex toys, fucking machines, and more.
A list of awesome projects that use the Buttplug Sex Toy Control Library.